Clutch cable

[84svounoh]

Well it seems like I can't catch a break when it comes to clutch cables this is my second one and the ball on the trans side is to big. I have to get it fixed by monday. My first cable was to long and that was the pioneer cable this is an ATP off rock auto and the ball is to big. I'm either gonna grind down the ball or open up that hole what do you guys think?uploadfromtaptalk1397337764678.jpg

[MikeFleming]

Just cut (flat file) the outside diameter of the ball end on the cable leaving the radiused portion of the ball intact. Do not widen the circle in the clevit end - it still must match the diameter of the pin that goes through it for proper load distribution when actuating the clutch release.

[84svounoh]

Thanks i ended up getting it working but my clutch still engages about an inch off the floor even with the firewall adjuster backed all the way out. This is my third clutch cable that isnt working properly. Im lost. My next idea is getting an adjustable 5.0 cable like the one that was one the car when i bought it and rounding off one of the nuts to fit in the clevice correctly.

[84svounoh]

And with the clutch engaging so I feel like it may not be disengaging fully because there is quite a bit of added shifting effort. But my trans is low on fluid as well.

[84svounoh]

Another thing I forgot to mention. When installing the newest cable there was about a Inch and a half gap between the clevice and lever on bell housing. It took some muscle to get it to reach but I did is it supposed to be like that?

[NY eric]

Something is not right. ATP is the only cable that I found to be correct. I thought it was 220 cable but I looked at the one pictured on the site is clearly what you got. The 147 is closer in looks but the only picture that looks correct is the AMS one. This is one the things that drove me nuts about parts.

[84svounoh]

Your telling me and especially having this issue on my only vehicle.

[rodster]

Another thing I forgot to mention. When installing the newest cable there was about a Inch and a half gap between the clevice and lever on bell housing. It took some muscle to get it to reach but I did is it supposed to be like that?

Sounds like the cable is too short?

It's crazy something so simple as a clutch cable can be so difficult. You are a brave having an SVO as your only car!

[k98dave]

I have never had any pioneer cables that were any good. Their 5.0 cables are junk also.

[84svounoh]

I'm gonna check the input bearing retainer because my clutch still slips during acceleration in 4th. Yet it engages an inch off the floor. Yeah and I'm in college full time for automotive and I love working on the car but I also work full time at a dealership so I'm limited to the weekends. I work from 730 a.m.-5 p.m. and I have class 630 p.m. until 1130 p.m.

[rodster]

I applaud you for your work ethics! With that determination you are bound to be successful!

Good luck on the clutch cable and keep us posted on what you find.

[84svounoh]

Well my teacher decided to cut some of our shop time so it looks like I may be dropping the trans on the ground again I was really hoping to have a lift to use.

[84svounoh]

Well I found out my issue. All of my issues came from my stupidity, I did not put Loctite on the pressure plate bolts and they started backing out. Good thing I decided to pull it when I did or else there could have been a very big mess. It still isn't 100% my adjustment is all weird but I believe that's due to it being the wrong cable. What fluid is for the non wc t5? I have heard gear oil and I found the spec on all data and it says Dex/Merc.

[Jack Hidley]

I've got some questions about the dimensions of the ball end of the main clutch cable on an SVO. Unfortunately we don't have a car here to look at. The goal here is to determine if there is any way to use a nonSVO Ford clutch cable in the car. The cable pictured below is a Ford cable.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/As...ch/CL-9_LG.jpg

The first photo in this thread has what I assume to be an aftermarket SVO cable for the transmission end of a stock SVO. I've had a very difficult time finding a good photo. I have a photo of the complete stock cable and bellcrank assembled (shown at bottom of post). It appears that the end of the cable has a pin on the end which is at right angles to the axis of the cable. Given the shape of the clevis, this seems like the appropriate feature.

For reference the next photo linked shows the clevis and pin on the long end of the bellcrank.

http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/bo...yxrie.jpg.html

If I look on RockAuto for instance, every cable listed for a 1984-86 2.3l turbo has a ball end on the cable. Are they all made incorrectly? Does anyone have a photo of the end of a stock cable?

If the entire aftermarket makes these cables with a ball end instead of a pin, do owners just grind down the sides of the ball to make it fit within the clevis and live with the ball surface getting ground up by the clevis?

Picture073.jpg

[MikeFleming]

I have a NOS SVO clutch cable in the shop somewhere. Yes, it's just a ball end - 0.375" diameter on the gearbox end.

And I don't recall ever seeing much wear on those cable end/clevis thingies where the cable ball touches - there's more wear on the actual clevis pin that's held in with the semi-cotter pin thingie. I bought several new spares of the u-shaped thingies, the pins and spring clips several decades back and have never used the u-shaped clevis thingies.

I've replaced the needle bearings in the pivot arm though.

[Jack Hidley]

Mike,

That's a good point. I guess that the ball just embeds into the hole in the clevis and never moves. All of the motion is between the clevis and pin.

I was thinking about taking a Ford cable and crimping a proper clevis directly onto the end of it. This would eliminate the ball as a possible failure point. We could also build a proper adjustable dogbone link. I think the combination of the two would significantly reduce friction in the clutch system.

[rodster]

Any SVO clutch cables that would fit properly and be 'plug and play' would be a good thing! I've only replaced my dogbone cable once with a NOS piece and dread replacing the main cable based on everything I read.

[Jack Hidley]

The major problem with building cable parts for the SVO is that we'd need an unmolested car here for test fitment and installation instructions. That means at least 4-5 days spread over a period that could be 6 weeks. Even to start we'd need all of the parts in the mechanical system to measure (both complete cables, clutch fork, bellcrank, clips, etc).

[MikeFleming]

I have all of those things. You get to pay for shipping/insurance both ways.

[DaveS]

The major problem with building cable parts for the SVO is that we'd need an unmolested car here for test fitment and installation instructions. That means at least 4-5 days spread over a period that could be 6 weeks. Even to start we'd need all of the parts in the mechanical system to measure (both complete cables, clutch fork, bellcrank, clips, etc).

I've got two unmolested '86s here, but shipping would get ya. One of the two will be cars will be in Sturgis this year.