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Thread: '86 2R build thread. "Project tax return"

  1. #21
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Here's a couple of pictures to give you a better idea of the area. All of the pictures are of the same harness area. The two wire connector is one blk wire and one yel/red tracer wire ( old wiring, taking my best guess at colors) and the clip on wire is to the oil press send. Unit iirc its also a yel/red color of wire. That two wire connector and the sender clip on connector go into a grey connector, and that is where you see the blue wire that is cut, and then continues into the main harness on the Dr. Side. Hope this helps a little more.
    Pic above is a clear shot of the two wire connector, and the one wire sender clip on connector, that goes into the grey connector that shows the blue cut wire, then continues into the main harness.

  2. #22
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    The 86 EVTM doesn't give much useful data. It does not show which connector comes from/goes to which harness. The "pictures" don't have wire colors or circuit numbers and the schematics (that have circuit numbers and wire colors) aren't connector or harness stub specific; they are by function only.

    I will scan the pages and post later.
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  3. #23
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike, much appreciated!

  4. #24
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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  5. #25
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Low oil level sender? It comes out of the same harness and is a one wire. Could you find what color the low oil level Sender wire is? ,and what color the two wires on the cooling fan temp switch are? Think we are getting close

  6. #26
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Answered my own question on the cooling fan switch, the only thing I am not finding is what color of wire the low oil level sender is. It doesn't appear to be in the wiring diagrams, but is clear as day shown on the last picture of sensors/senders that you posted mike.

  7. #27
    Some Boost JTurbo's Avatar
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    I'll try to take a peek at mine tomorrow and let you know.....
    1979 Pace Car ~ 1982 GT T-Top
    1986 1C SVO ~ 1986 GT vert

  8. #28
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    I appreciate that! Thank you much

  9. #29
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    My generic Mustang EVTM doesn't list an Oil Level Sensor circuit for the SVO, it being a special breed amongst itself. It does show one for the 6/8 cyl models as circuit 258 using a wire labeled as DB/LG, which should translate to Dark Blue with Light Green (stripe or dash).
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  10. #30
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    The wire that is cut on my car is DB, doesn't appear to have a tracer ( line or dash) so, according to the 2.3 sensor/sender schematic you posted, the 2.3 turbo does have a low oil level sensor. But the Ford diagrams are not showing a circuit for it on a 2.3 but only showing it for 6&8 cyl. So, does anyone on here happen to have an svo where they can use my photos as reference, and tell me where the blue wire goes?

  11. #31
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    If you use the schematic titles 4cyl turbo views 121 that mike posted , there are two connectors (grey in person) that are shown on the intake manifold in the schematic, one connector (lower) goes to fuel inj. And coolant temp sender, while the other (top connector on the side of intake in the schematic) goes to the cooling fan temp switch and oil press. Sender. On that top connector there is 4 wires 2 for the cooling fan temp switch, one for oil press. Sender, and then a blue wire that is unknown (to me) , I'm posting this since my pictures are without an engine in.the car, so I'm trying to help as much as I can. I truly appreciate all of the help.

  12. #32
    Half Boost
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    The oil level sender wire in my 86 is dark blue-coming off the fan sensor pigtail.

  13. #33
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    That's what it is then. Thank you for looking.

  14. #34
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    It never ends, I was observing the sensor location charts and there are three sensors on my intake. The coolant sensor (for the computer I believe) and then two on the back side . None of the svo diagrams I've seen show this setup. I believe the top sensor to be the KS, but iirc the lower sensor did not have a connector on it when I pulled the engine. So, I'm not sure what that sensor is anyway, or if I should be worried about it. This could explain why my cooling fan two wire connector was not plugged in, because there is no place for it.


  15. #35
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    The lower one in the pic is the infamous 87/88 TC IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. Not used on the SVO. 85.5/86 SVO intakes did not come with that hole or sensor. The boss was there in the casting, but it was not drilled/tapped for that model.

    Looks like that lower was replaced with one from an 87/88 TC as it does not have the lower coolant boss drilled/tapped for the fan switch either.

    The upper one is a blind hole where the Knock Sensor mounts. That is the proper KS location location for the PE -LA* - LB* EECs.
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  16. #36
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    On another note go buy (or order delivered) a small blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. And get some fine and coarse walnut shells. That will clean those parts up and make them real shiny again.

    A very good restoration investment if you have a compressor. Not so good though if you don't have a compressor.
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  17. #37
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Thank you mike you are a huge help. I have almost all of the wiring done, still have two connectors that I have not identified yet on the passenger side. I'll post them later. And then I'll be done with wiring! As far as the fan turn on switch being absent, I suppose I could leave it that way and bypass it with a manual switch so I can control the fan, I have a autometer water temp gauge as well that was under the seat of the car in the box still. So then I can just watch the temp and turn the fan on via manual switch.

  18. #38
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    So then I can just watch the temp and turn the fan on via manual switch.
    Note that only works if you're the only one - ever - to drive it. And as long as you never make a mistake.

    IOW, not recommended. Street cars should be able to be driven by anyone and be setup so they take care of themselves most of the time.

    IMHO,
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  19. #39
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    What would be the way to get it back up and running again on its own? Especially since it has the tc lower intake with no fan turn on switch, and I'm sure the trw box under the dash is toast like many others I've read. It's not a dd, more of my cruiser for the local mustang meets and weekend cruises. I dd my GT to work, but that could change with some better mpg opprotunity presented by the svo once its done.

  20. #40
    Some Boost SVOfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    The upper one is a blind hole where the Knock Sensor mounts. That is the proper KS location location for the PE -LA* - LB* EECs.
    What do you mean by blind hole? So since it is the proper ks location for the Pe-la lb eec. Since its not the traditional svo ks location on the intake, it wouldn't make a difference if I use the tc lower with that ks on the back of the intake correct? And then just leave the iat sensor below the ks as is since its not used in our application.

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