One hose is from the valve cover the other is from the crankcase breather. I've put about 80 miles on it and now I'm not getting any oil going out the tube. I added a filter at the end of the hose that I have attached to the lower part of the radiator. I think the larger hole in the valve cover is the trick to do on these engines.
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I still have oil leaking from th area of the dipstick tube. I've sealed it with seal all. I put paper towels in different places to pinpoint where it is coming from. I found that the leak is is coming from the oil fill cap when the engine is in the 3k range. The oil then runs to the back of the valve cover and drips down the back of the engine. I'm going to get a new different(not Slant) from AutoZone today & see if it has a tight secure fit.
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I got the new oil fill cap from Autozone. When I first put it on it won't turn. I took it over to my spare valve cover and used my big Channel Lock pliers to turn it on. I did it several times and then I could do it by hand. It's a good tight fit. I took the car out for a 10 mile sprint on the interstate. No Leaks. The brand is CST part #8109 $8.99 with your Military discount. I think it's the Chosen oil fill cap for the Ford 2.3 sohc turbo. It's made in Israel. Next is to put the R416A in the A/C & see if it works better than the R134A.
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I've been chasing my oil leaks. I redid my catch can and put some more clamps on hoses. I got it almost completely stopped. I think the bulk of the oil dripping that looks like it's coming from the rear main seal is coming from where the dipstick tube goes into the block. I used Seal All this last time. I'll tap or seal that dipstick tube on my spare engine. I also got new front brake calipers & brake pads.Valve cover breather 2.jpg1119161449a.jpg1214160831a.jpg1214160831.jpg
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My calipers
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You may want to address the kink in the yellow hose to reduce the restriction. I have the same catch can sitting on my shelf as well, thinking about using it on my Focus ST.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Yeah I straighten it out. The only way I see you can get oil tite integrity with the dipstick tube to the block is to braze it or poxy it.
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Try some blue loctite. Plus your tube diameters to your catch can are too small. From the block, you need at least a 1" diameter tube and at least 3/8" from the valve cover.
I've got 3/4" from the crankcase breather to the connector then 5/8" to the can the breather from the can is 1/2" the size of the fitting out. The pvc tubing doesn't grip as well as rubber so I clamped the connectors not pictured.I also added a spring to the dipstick tube to hold it down tight. I put paper towels in different locations to narrow down the leaks. If I have to I'll pull the engine again and seal everything.
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If you get that far in tap and install a compression fitting for the dipstick tube. Has been working great for me for a couple of years now.
What tap size and fitting did you use? Do you have any pics? Did you have to cut the tube?
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I think it was 3/4-16 but it's been a couple of years. Yes you would have to cut the tube or do what I did and make a new one. The problem with that is you also have to make a bracket for it. I forget if the stock one could not be cut the right length because of the crimps to bottom it out or if I just wanted to keep the stock one intact. There is info on turboford somewhere.
Here is a thread on TF on 100% Leak-free engine. Lots of good ideas.
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/u...=055031#000039
I blew a oil seal on my turbo. Smokey. It's been 29 years since I've changed the turbo on the car. I remember it was difficult to get everything unhooked under the turbo. It's a bear. I got that done I'll do the topside tomorrow. I'm going to replace the water cooled journal CHRA. Just a regular T3 60 wheel with a .63 A/R. I've got 2 more turbos I'll propabaly redo later. They say the easy part is taking it apart. Not thrilled about putting it back on. Too many projects.
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^
It's good practice. 29 years between swapping turbos is what got you out of practice!!
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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I picked up the A/C conversion kit from The Hose Wizard today. Nice kit Glen is a great guy he told me all the info about getting it up and running. The condensor is very thin. I still have to pull the old condensor and compressor out. I won't be working on it til it cools down. I had G-Pops turbo rebuild 2 turbos for me. Nice work. Pics
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I pulled the old a/c out this morning. The new condensor is a much better design. I'm glad I did this with the turbo out. Makes it easy to work on. The mounting plate bolts lined up good. I had to trim my lower radiator hose to get a sharper bend. I'll have to see if it hits when I lower it.
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more pics
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I put the Hose Wizard A/C kit on my last SVO - worked great! No more belt squeal either, but I did go with a serpentine belt set up.
7B SL55
I got the compressor installed today. Now I have to put the rest of it together then install the turbo. Work in progress.
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