I know I had 10" 350 and replaced as I felt they were to much. I have new 12" 275 in my basement. I think the 12" to long as the lower perch won't clear the wheel/tire (245/40-17 on 8" wide SN 95 style wheel). Can't check it now as car still at the shop waiting for the engine rebuilt to be complete. 18 weeks and still counting. It's killing me!!! and now it's SNOWING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May 10" 275??
The other mod in the book is to elongate the holes in the front struts 1/4 inch to move the strut closer to the spindle. (and tire) Improving scrub radius. Is this a good mod on our Koni's? With 245/40 17's I wonder about clearance. If they don't clear I guess I can always tighten them in the stock location.
That will increase negative camber while reducing tyre to strut body clearance.
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If you are looking for a little additional space between the tire and the strut, the 8" Coilovers place the spring perch above the tires so there is no rubbing on the spring. It gave me an additional 1/2-3/4" of clearance.
I am not going the coil over route. So I don't really need this mod? With caster camber plates can't you get enough negative camber without this?
I am installing the anti squat brackets and already am lowered enough. I am thinking of getting adjustable length arms or adjustable spring perches on my lowers to compensate. If I get the adjustable length I figure to make them longer and keep the same ride height. Will this keep the anti squat working or is the pinion angle change part of the anti squat equation? I maybe off with this as making the arm longer still won't keep the spring up will it?
I am not familiar with the KB brackets. How much do they lower the attachment point? You may want to readjust the pinion angle but I have some confusion on what you finially did with the top arms. Since you are not doing coilovers, and you want to keep the ride height, adjustable spring perches is the way to go. You could play with different thickness spring pads but the adjustable perches are a better solution.
To better answer your question think of the triangulation that is done with the lower attachment point, the body attachment point and the mean angle formed at the top attachment point when viewed from the side. Don't forget to imagine the pinion relationship and spring perch on the lower arm also. Anything you do will affect the pinion angle and the ride height. Springs, attachment points, adjust length upper and lower arms, a torque arm, or spring perches will all make the suspension work differently. Some mods more and some less. But remember the big lessons like the fox body is a limp weak wet noodle and the rear suspension design is atrocious from a good handling point of view. Don't overthink what you can accomplish with the stock suspension. You can only make small improvements with the stock designs. Put your brackets on, put on a k member 4 point brace and go have have fun with it. If you want to play with the ride height in back put on some lower arms with the adjustable spring perches. Might get a set that will work with a future suspension and beef up the body attachment points but save your money at that point.
The pinion angle has nothing to do with the amount of antisquat or has any affect on traction whatsoever. Having the relationship between the pinion angle and driveline angle set incorrectly, will result in driveline vibration and reduce the efficiency of the driveline. The pinion angle by itself is completely meaningless.
The angle of the RLCA in the side view is one of the factors that determines the amount of antisquat. By RLCA, we mean the link which is a line drawn between the center of the front RLCA pivot bolt and the center of the rear RLCA pivot bolt. The shape of the RLCA has nothing to do with anything. Only the angle of the line mentioned affects the dynamics of the suspension. In general I would set the combination of ride height and RLCA position in the AS brackets, so that this line is level. Don't adjust things so this line is uphill when looking forward. This will result in roll oversteer, which makes it easy to spin the car. This would be ok for a drag race setup, but not normal street driving.
Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
Thanks that's good information I'll keep in my book. Rick
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OK Jack now I'm confused. It seams the line of the RLCA is already uphill and using the anti squat brackets will make it more uphill. (side view) I thought this was going to move the instant center further back and improve squat and dive while giving more traction for corner exit. Thanks for answering my question about the pinion angle as this too will change with the AS brackets.
Bruce, I hope I didn't give you the impression that the pinion angle would affect antisquat. There had been talk of adjustable upper and lower arms, spring perches, different shocks and different suspension types and I was simply trying to make you aware of something else to consider.Originally Posted by Jack Hidley
This is why I brought this up and kept it in a separate paragraph and not even mention antisquat or lower control arm angle there. Unfortunately I also restated it in the second paragraph.
It can be challenging trying to visualize all of the angles that are formed with the suspension and attachment points. Sorry to add to the confusion.
Jack's explanation is 180 degrees out from what Mathis shows in the book and his answer does create some confusion. I hope he will answer it for you, but I find his answer more confusing than mine.
Changing the control arm pickup point will change the pinion angle unless the upper arms are shortened or the lowers lengthened. I knew from the book that the control arm angle change was to move instant center. I have heard drag racers talk of changing pinion angles but didn't know why. Maybe the same reasons just a different way of looking at or describing things.
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