And So It Begins - 1984 SVO Project.

[Tordaan]

I did bypass the resistor wire. I am planning on extending the inline power feed to the tank pump, but haven't yet done so. anxious to just see it run

[Tordaan]

Also, I found a way to test and clean the injectors. I'll do this to the spares and clean out the spare fuel rail and put that on the car tomorrow. Hope that does the trick. Want to take the car for a ride around the neighborhood tomorrow.

[Tordaan]

Today, I got the upper intake off and got the injectors out. Using a valve stem as a connector with a modified cap with the straw from a can of carb cleaner glued into it, I was able to test and forward and back the injectors. I activated the injectors with a flashlight battery s I could spray cleaner through in both directions. One of the injectors would not even open, and 2 were clogged to the point f just dribbling gas through. Between the injectors from the spare intake and the ones in the, I believe I have good set. New O rings, new gaskets for the intake and I am ready to reassemble tomorrow. Since I have room to easily change the plus and wires, I'll do that as well.

Can someone tell me what this is and what it does. I cant find any reference in the shop manual.

[svono50]

That is the fuel pulse dampener. It's purpose is to 'smooth' out the fuel line supply pressure, since our injectors are batch fired rather than sequential like on our V8 bretheren. I have seen folks run with and without and haven't heard of any direct ill effects of running without it, FWIW. I have run my car without it for a while as an experiment and didn't notice any difference, so it was put back on. Earlier models, like yours, have an adjustment screw on the top, while later units don't have any external adjustment capability.

[Tordaan]

I seem to remember someone saying this would be easy. Oh, now I remember. It was me talking to my wife.

OK. New plugs, new wires, new distributer cap, new rotor, new fuel pump, new filter, injectors cleaned and tested. Will not start at all unless you hold the throttle to the floor. It will try to start and maybe run a second or so sometimes, but will not continue to run. Fuel pressure comes immediately up to 43 lbs when the ignition is turned on then drop to 38 lbs. When cranking, it goes back to 43 lbs and stays there with some pulsing when it is trying to run. Read the codes ad I get a 23, 26, and 67. Don't know how valid these are since the car has never really run.

Also, when I pulled plugs before I got the the injectors back in, they all seemed to have gas on them. Maybe the injectors weren't as bad a I thought, although 1 was completely dead.

[MikeFleming]

Code 23, TPS Out of Range, means that at some point int he TPS movement it has an open or shorted spot. Replace it and/or repair the wiring to/from it.

Code 26 means the MAP (BAP) in the SVO) is out of range. Probably a defective sensor and/or wiring ro/from the sensor. It's on the front facing side of the right hand shock tower. Swap it with a known good one.

Code 67 means that the Premium/Unleaded switch is in the Unleaded position. You cna safely ignore this as it cannot cause a non-start condition.

The non-start sounds like you have a large air leak between the VAF and the throttle body. Go over all the hoses from the outlet of the vane meter to the throttle body. and make sure there are no large air leaks in the intake manifold system - such as the large vacuum takeoff hose that goes to the firewall vac tree and onto the brake booster.

[Tordaan]

IT"S ALIVE!!!!

Running for the first time in 15 years

A stuck vane air flow sensor was the culprit. A little piece of crud had it stuck open.

Starts instantly, nothing ugly coming out of the exhaust, idles very smooth at 1100 RPM an the only code is 67. Code 67 has something to do with the octane switch (I guess shop manuals are good for something other than leveling tables). Sounds really good. Couldn't be happier.

Next is the severe oil leak from the turbo oil return line at the block. Tightening it did not help, and may have made it worse. I think I will see if I can get it off to inspect it. If the flare is messed up, maybe it can be re-flared or I could replace it with a spare that I have.

Once that is done, then it is off to the frame rack for a little massage.

[Tordaan]

Thanks for the help Mike. Most of what I know about this car I have learned from yours an all the other posts on this forum.

[MikeFleming]

Party On, Wayne!!

Glad to hear it's ALIVE!

[grntRUDD13]

That is the fuel pulse dampener. It's purpose is to 'smooth' out the fuel line supply pressure, since our injectors are batch fired rather than sequential like on our V8 bretheren. I have seen folks run with and without and haven't heard of any direct ill effects of running without it, FWIW. I have run my car without it for a while as an experiment and didn't notice any difference, so it was put back on. Earlier models, like yours, have an adjustment screw on the top, while later units don't have any external adjustment capability.

The one in my car died, no fuel was going through it. So my car is without. Seems to run just fine, haven't had any ill effects from it that I can tell. I tried looking online as none of the local auto parts places carried them, but the only ones I found were kind of pricey. Brings up a good story of the guy behind the counter at the auto parts store I went to for a replacement telling me there isn't such a thing though.

[MikeFleming]

All SVOs came with LOTS of parts that never existed. It's how we roll.

[Tordaan]

So, now I have another question. The front struts are Koni, but not adjustable as far as I can tell. The Koni part number is 8641X 1006. The Ford part number is E4ZX-18A084-AA. i have seen a couple of other threads about this Koni part number, but not sure if this is the OEM part that came from the factory, or a ford replacement part. I was always under the impression that all SVOs came from the factory with adjustable struts. Did some early 84s come with non adjustable? I also have tire rub marks on the struts. A little suspicious.

[MikeFleming]

If it's a real KONI, it has an adjustment on the top. Original ones had the D-shaped adjuster and most rebuild/newer replacement ones have the later flat-blade style. If someone changed the cartridges out to aftermarket, then all bets are off. Look to see if the upper nut plate is still welded on the strut body nut. Bottom two have the stock nut plate still attached, top one does not.
Img_1798.jpg

KONI never provided replacement cartridges for these struts, which are specific to the SVO.

[ccmcelroy]

The one in my car died, no fuel was going through it. So my car is without. Seems to run just fine, haven't had any ill effects from it that I can tell. I tried looking online as none of the local auto parts places carried them, but the only ones I found were kind of pricey. Brings up a good story of the guy behind the counter at the auto parts store I went to for a replacement telling me there isn't such a thing though.

I found a nos one a year or so ago and it was pricey. I bought it just because I knew I hadn't seen any for sale anywhere.

IMG_4426.jpg

[MikeFleming]

Note the extremely tight, narrow, square crimps in the hardline that the push-on fuel line retaining clips attach to.
IMG_4426.jpg

[Tordaan]

Thanks for the strut info Mike. Looks like I will be looking for struts now. I see Koni is again selling an SVO specific strut.

[Tordaan]

Mike, you were right about the struts. Looks like the previous owner installed aftermarket cartridges. Koni lists 8741 1054 as an SVO specific replacement. I think I will go with thesee unless someone knows a reason I shouldn't

Today, I removed the turbo so I could remove the bracket that was preventing me from seeing seeing why I had such a severe leak in the turbo oil return. I found that the line was cross threaded into the Brass fitting. Fortunately, there were only 2 threads engaged at the top and none at the bottom. The flair in the line is good, so I just need to clean up the threads in the fitting and reassemble.

Since I had the exhaust system disassembled to this extent, I decided to see if I could get the exhaust manifold bolts loose since I have an E6 to replace the cracked E3. I got all of them loose without breaking any. Question: Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the EGR line from the exhaust manifold? It is really stuck. Also, can I use the old manifold bolts, or should I replace them.

[Tordaan]

Another question. When I put the oil return fitting back in the block, should I use a few wraps of Teflon tape?

[MikeFleming]

should I use a few wraps of Teflon tape?

Yes - standard procedure on tapered pipe threads.

No tape on the tube nut/flare end - that does not seal on the threads.

[rodster]

IT"S ALIVE!!!!

Running for the first time in 15 years

A little late to the party but CONGRATS!!!!