What is "AIC"?Originally Posted by soldthedart
Why did you disconnect/plug the EGR?
The fuel supply system is totally independent of the EEC version. It's a completely separate circuit that is not controlled/managed by the EEC other than switching power on/off to the fuel pump relay. Single or twin pumps does not mater as long as there is a fresh supply of pressurized fuel.
What is the fuel pressure doing when the engine stalls out?
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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I just realized my brother has my pressure testing equipment and he in BF Egypt.
The guy I bought the parts from I thought had the correct EGR Tube.
I have that caped off at the manifold and the tube.
I installed to old ecu and she will stay running but not very good.
I rechecked the timing and tried adjusting the idle but as soon as I unplug the AIC "Air Idle Control Valve" it stalls out.
So I installed another AIC I had and it still stalls out.
Sorry to hear this. Since we all follow these threads , and I invited you to get what ever you needed......I just want everyone to know I'm NOT THE GUY that sold the wrong parts!
Mark
P.S. Let us know how this works out - if you are tired of spending money and just want to trade let us know.
Yeah, ther pre-PE EECs will grossly over-fuel with the larger injectors.I installed to old ecu and she will stay running but not very good.
I rechecked the timing and tried adjusting the idle but as soon as I unplug the AIC "Air Idle Control Valve" it stalls out.
So I installed another AIC I had and it still stalls out.
The proper Ford term is IAC for Idle Air Control. AIC threw me, now I know what you're saying. If you prop open the throttle plate a bit, will it run (idle) without the IAC/AIC connected?
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Im sure you will not post anything helpful and could care less, and by us you mean you of course.
Mike,
If I peddle the car and it will run with the PE but as soon as I let of the gas she died out.
Swapped out the throttle body with no effect. perhaps I have a couple injectors plugged in the wrong place?
It could only be the 2 center injectors.
Are you sure all your intake hoses are fit properly and secure when you reinstalled the intercooler? Sounds like a VAM issue...
Bad choices make great stories....!
Doesn't sound like an injector issue - if it runs OK when pedaled around. As long as injectors are connected (electrically) in pairs, it does not matter where the wires go. Usually if the injectors are seriously unbalanced then using more power would mean more issues. OTOH it's entirely possible one or more of them has a low-flow pattern issue. Check pressure first. And, Yes, I realize some of your tools are out of reach.
Remind me where the injectors came from and their condition.
I would look more into intake system air leaks, VAF settings, throttle plate base idle settings, etc.
What does the KOER (engine running) EEC self-test show?
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Laredo, the intercooler connections seem to be done correctly.
I even removed and replaced it.
Mike, The injectors were to have been rebuilt.
I have another set of brown top I can send out to have reworked. I'll see about a pressure gauge tomorrow.
The pumps were all new along with the filter car ran fine before the swap so its definitely something I have done..
I can pull the fuel rail and visually check the spray pattern of the injectors and see if any of them are problematic.
I checked and made sure the pintals were not froze up before I had installed them.
Ill keep on looking for an intake leak but besides the MBC , line from the vacuum tree and the other to the waste gate actuator and capped off the unused connections that went to the BCS. It all is as it was as far as the vacuum lines go.
VAF settings? not sure what that is. KOER test be done if im peddling the car?
I hope its not they reassembly I did of the intercooler I couldn't find any pictures of the procedure so I winged it..
Be VERY careful checking the injector spray pattern when using petrol. Have your fire protective gear on (face mask, long sleeves, gloves on before doing this test. Place the fire bottles in the exit path so you can get to them by running away from the fire. I don't care much for petrol fires myself.
If it can idle by itself with the IAC connected, it will run a KOER.
You took the core out of the cooler housing? As long as none of the seals were torn, it;s pretty easy to re-assemble. Check it with the engine running at a high idle and spray some ether (Starting Fluid) around the core to housing on the top (do not use brake or carb cleaner). If its leaking, you'll see an increase in engine speed and probably also hear it pinging. There will be a time delay of maybe a second in most cases.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Check the tps voltage & the distributor gear teeth close for wear. I'd use WD 40 for checking for vacuum leak plug wires can be bad and arc to ground.
Your Best Bet, Hire a Vet!
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TPS voltage @.90
Car ran fine before upgrade.
New plugs, cap roter and wires.+ Plugs gaped to .030
At this point I would check my work to make sure I didn't introduce a problem while changing things around. Swap your old computer back in and change out the injectors. It should start up, idle and run like it did before. If it doesn't you have introduced a problem.
This should be a simple upgrade. I have done this on the 1B 85. For reference this is what I did:
Changed out the inline intake for the square port intake from an 85.5 SVO(no need to swap valve cover with this intake)
(Did not use all of the bolt holes on the lower intake manifold to head, 85 head has 1 less hole)
Changed out the fuel rail and injectors
Adapted the cooling fan switch from the 85.5 by adding a ground wire and spade connectors
Disconnected the knock sensor
Disconnected the boost control module and solenoid
Added Gillis manual boost controller
Swapped out the PK for a PE computer
Swapped out the EGR tube
Swapped out the manifold dipstick bracket for the square port style
At this point, it started right up and ran well.
Since then I have added a drop in K&N filter, Stingers 3" exhaust system, a ported E6 exhaust manifold(the E3 cracked) and changed out the non water cooled .63 turbo for the 85.5 watercooled .48 turbo. With a fresh tune and synthetics in the drive line, here is a dyno chart on the car(66K miles)Attachment 8303
It's a fun car to drive for me. The SVO can be problematic at times but they are easy to work on and fix. You have most likely introduced a problem. A vacumme leak or wiring connection probably. Make sure you didn't cross the fuel lines.
Im sure you could be right, I may have left something askew.
You are correct about the ecu, I swapped it back in and the car will idle just not as well as it used to..
Ill check things out thoroughly tomorrow and if I end up swapping in the old injectors and it fixes the problem ill send them out for rebuild.
It turned out to be the hose between the VAM and the Turbo inlet!
Have 107 in her and shee runs great at 17psi.
If you think the boost level im running is to high please let me know.
I have the knock sensor hooked up and shes really is running great.
Really glad I had listened to all of you.
We were about to recommend to thaw some chickens.
Glad to hear it's an SVO again. In my experience "upgrading" to square/35'ers/PE is one of the best investments.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Barbeque? Not sure I get the chicken reference!
I originally had the Gillis valve set at 6 turns out but that put the boost at 20PSI.
I got off it imenideatly and turned it out 2 more times now shes at 17 steady.
Now onto the dreaded drivers side door lock actuator replacement.!!
The chicken reference usually starts with "Wave a dead chicken over the hood ..."; i.e.:
http://dictionary.reference.com/brow...a+dead+chickenTo perform a ritual in the direction of crashed software or hardware that one believes to be futile but is nevertheless necessary so that others are satisfied that an appropriate degree of effort has been expended. "I'll wave a dead chicken over the source code, but I really think we've run into an OS bug".
"Thawing the chicken" refers to an alleged British test where launching assorted birds against the windscreens produced rather unexpected results.
http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/blthaw.htm( True story, as heard on the "Late Late Show with Tom Snyder" 3/3/97 )
Scientists at NASA have developed a gun for the purpose of launching dead chickens. It is used to shoot a dead chicken at the windshield of airline jet, military jet, or the space shuttle, at that vehicle's maximum traveling velocity. The idea being, that it would simulate the frequent incidents of collisions with airborne fowl, and therefore determine if the windshields are strong enough to endure high-speed bird strikes.
British engineers, upon hearing of the gun, were eager to test it on the windshields of their new high-speed trains. However, upon firing the gun, the engineers watched in shock as the chicken shattered the windshield, smashed through the control console, snapped the engineer's backrest in two, and embedded itself into the back wall of the cabin.
Horrified and puzzled, the engineers sent NASA the results of the experiment, along with the designs of the windshield, and asked the NASA scientists for any suggestions.
The NASA scientists sent back a brief response: "Thaw the chicken."
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
That is Hilarious!!
The truth is stranger than fiction.
I installed the door lock actuator and new rearview mirror from CJPony but the rear view mirror needed a lot of work to make it replace the original.
I think it was an Asian replacement part. I don't recommend it.
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