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Thread: Repairing Konis

  1. #1
    Building Boost
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    Repairing Konis

    Have you been recently able to get your OEM Konis still repaired (by Koni) or have they been replaced by new units? I have leaking front struts and when called to our local Koni repair center (in Helsinki, Finland), guy was suspicious of getting spare parts for such old units. Saying that material of internal gaskets is different nowadays and old ones are hard to find. Is there such parts still available? Maybe some part numbers or other info for them to find right ones? I would rather keep my originals with correct manufacturing date markings and old style adjuster than buy new ones.
    Lauri

    1984 Mustang SVO 1C
    1988 Tbird TC 1C

  2. #2
    Half Boost
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    Are you the original owner? I had a set rebuilt by Koni in Kentucky 2 years ago. Retaining stock internals. I don't believe they have the correct stickers for them though. If you want to stay original you could tell them not to paint them. Try contacting Koni here. 859-586-4100

  3. #3
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Just talked to Koni this week. Rebuilding is an option if originality is what you are after, but the cost will be more than new ones.

    I heard the mounting holes in the new ones are not in the correct location but they were not aware of any issues.

  4. #4
    Some Boost bluemax's Avatar
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    I had both the front struts and rear shocks rebuilt by Koni earlier this year (I also wanted to retain original parts and date codes). The cost is slightly higher than new, the color is not correct, and the decals are slightly larger than the originals (you have to specify that you want the triangle decals or they will use the new logo).

    I stripped, epoxy primed, and repainted them the correct color.
    1986 2R Comp Prep
    1986 9L Comp Prep

  5. #5
    Building Boost ccmcelroy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluemax View Post
    I had both the front struts and rear shocks rebuilt by Koni earlier this year (I also wanted to retain original parts and date codes). The cost is slightly higher than new, the color is not correct, and the decals are slightly larger than the originals (you have to specify that you want the triangle decals or they will use the new logo).

    I stripped, epoxy primed, and repainted them the correct color.
    Where did you find the original color to paint them yourself?
    Chad McElroy
    86 2A BWD, 2018 Civic Type R, 1988 Mustang Lx 5.0

  6. #6
    Animated Italian Gigolo blueboss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodster View Post
    .....I heard the mounting holes in the new ones are not in the correct location but they were not aware of any issues.
    Not true. I have a set of new ones on my 84. Bolted right up just like they belonged there.
    "Some trannys can operate both types of gearboxes but manual gearboxes with clutch pedals are more difficult to operate with heels on."

  7. #7
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    That's good to know. Thanks. Bad information can quickly on the internet. Perhaps someone order the wrong struts and blamed it on Koni.

  8. #8
    Half Boost Raven855's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodster View Post
    I heard the mounting holes in the new ones are not in the correct location but they were not aware of any issues.
    The mounting holes are fine. The strut is different though. The SVO strut's body extends below the mounting tab further. That is why you cannot just bolt on a set of later control arms, even using the ball joint adapter. They actual hit the later style control arm.

    I had my SVO struts for the 85.5 rebuilt by Koni a few years ago before the price increase. I had them rebuilt to the 84 model spec which is a little firmer. They are the last set to be built to actual 84 specs. Koni will no longer rebuild to the early spec and only offers the later spec rebuild. The color looked perfect to me.

  9. #9
    Noob
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    I have a question about early/late style Koni's and did not want to start a new thread.

    I bought a used very low mileage set of front Koni's(build date 1/02). The struts look like new. My one concern is that they do not rebound. I can feel a difference in the compression with adjusting them, but they will not rebound either full soft or hard. I bought them to replace my original 83 build date Koni's. My original Koni's are a little weaker than the newer ones, but rebound fine. Do the newer replacement Koni's rely on spring pressure to rebound? I am stuck on the fence on which set to use.

  10. #10
    Half Boost
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    The set I had rebuilt by Koni didn't rebound equally (but they did rebound eventually) and they told me not to worry about it the gas is to keep the oil from foaming, as long as they were not leaking they would work fine.

  11. #11
    Building Boost MSheff's Avatar
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    Here is a response I received from Koni from my inquiry in August 2015. See below:

    Thank you for contacting us here at KONI NA. The price to rebuild the struts and shocks is $170 each plus parts for the fronts and $140 each plus parts for the rear. Parts typically range $50-$80 per damper as well during the service. To have the shocks rebuilt, please return them to the address below to the attention of the rebuild shop. Inside the box include you contact information, (name, telephone number, and return address, also a short description of what you would like have done to the shocks). Once the shocks are finished, we will contact you with a final total on the rebuild and get payment info from you at that time. The current lead time is 6-7 weeks. The 84-86 SVO uses the same struts, shocks and valvings, the difference was the factory setting.


    Mason O’Hara
    KONI North America
    1961A International Way
    Hebron, Ky. 41048
    859 488-0324
    www.koni-na.com
    www.koniracing.com
    www.konirv.com

  12. #12
    Moderator Meotchh's Avatar
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    Awesome! Thanks for sharing the info Max.
    There's nothing more to see here, now move along...

  13. #13
    Building Boost
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    I too have had a set of Konis rebuilt. I have my 86 lowered with the "C" springs. The tech I spoke with recommended going with a slightly shorter shaft to avoid any bottoming out of the shock (reason why they blew out in the first place in my situation so I was told). I mention this since I am not 100 % sold on this. so if any one else has dealt with the same issue with Koni please chime in. It didnt cost any more than mentioned above .

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