Any tips on hatch removal and re-installation? I want to remove the hatch to take care of the cracked sealant on the body under the top of the hatch.
Where is the disconnect for the wiring? I suppose I should pull out my shop manuals huh?but I know they don't include many tips!
Not the best pic quality, but they do show the wiring locations and connectors.
Left front side of the hatch is an external harness that goes from the hatch to the body upper, inside the door jamb area. Remove the rubber grommet into the body to pull it out.
Much of the left rear inside panel must be removed, or levered out of the way and some padding removed. There are a couple of screwed or pushed-in cable clips that need to be managed.
The wiring has connectors. A set for the elec rear hatch motor, one large one for the rear defogger and another power wire if the car has a 3rd brake light.
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Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Thanks Mike, that's perfect.
Not a big deal to remove this stuff at this point since I have the taillights out to be refurbished and the headliner is out too. I have to keep telling myself this is a 'refresh' not a restoration!
Good luck with that.I have to keep telling myself this is a 'refresh' not a restoration!
That's how my "project" started - I was just gonna replace the dew wipes ...
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
I hear you..... I have to force myself to stay on the 'refresh' track. The minute I think restoration I remind myself the goal is to have a solid mechanical running survivor! I fell off the wagon last week when I didn't buy tires because I was thinking about sending my wheels out to be redone. Got to get back on track and get tires and keep the patina on the wheels!
Oh yea, on the hatch removal. Looks like the seats have to come out to remove the side panels. Gotta love the domino effect.
To completely remove, probably.Oh yea, on the hatch removal. Looks like the seats have to come out to remove the side panels. Gotta love the domino effect.
But you should be able to fold the seats forward then get the upper, side and rear lower screws of of the left side panel and snake your arms in there enough to get to the harness and associated connectors.
Wear long sleeves as there can be some sharp edges hidden in there. Waiting to be fed.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Since I enjoy my skin and taking things apart I think I'll opt for seat removal.Originally Posted by MikeFleming
Having just taken the spat bracket out of my car I can attest to the sharp edges under the plastic.
I peered behind the PS inside panel and saw some sheetmetal that looks like it was cut with a dull butter knife so I plan on proceeding with caution!
We call them our battle scars.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
I have done several SVO's and they all have the sharp edges especially around the sail panel studs and nuts. Looks like tin snips were used. Seems to be either an engineering oversight or just poor assembly methods. Have also seen a few where it looks like a large hole cutter was used to be able to have access to the sail panels studs. Those edges are sharp too.
Hatch removal and install is really a three man job.
I'm thinking it will be a three man job, me and 2 ratchet straps!
Make sure to mark the position of the hatch hinges.
Enough of that, it was giving me a headache.
Thanks, sure will.
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