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Thread: lost all power now it will not run

  1. #1
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    lost all power now it will not run

    I was out driving today and the car ( 85.5 svo 55,000 miles) was running fine. except for a very slight hesitation mostly when in 3rd gear which has been happening for a while. Then all of a sudden I lost all power, I could barely limp it off the highway. it got hot. i let it sit and cool down. it will start but idles really rough at barely 200 rpm and I touch the throttle and it dies. I'm thinking something with the fuel, but i don't have any idea where to start. any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks Tony

  2. #2
    Half Boost
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    You can start by telling us if it was under boost when you lost power? The fact that you had hesitation in 3rd sounds like bad fuel and a knock sensor pulling timing. If it failed under boost I might guess a head gasket. Pull the dipstick and oil filler cap to check the oil for contamination (milkshake color). If its a fuel pressure problem you will have to get a fuel pressure gauge and check it. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to run before cranking?

  3. #3
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    First: Get a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if the pump has left Earth [to join Elvis].
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  4. #4
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    Yes it was under boost when it lost power but the boost stayed up even after it lost power until i left of the gas. checked the oil looks nice and clean. i can hear the fuel pump prime with ignition on. i don't smell antifreeze or see any around the head. I was lucky when it died i was able to coast it to my in-laws and put it in their garage. i am going to get it home on a flat bed Monday. i will get a gauge on it and let you guys know where i am.
    Thanks for the quick advise.

  5. #5
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    fuel pressure is 10 with the key on engine off. probably not good?

  6. #6
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    i still had my original pump it was good i just put a 155 LPH in it over the winter. so I put that one back in still starts but dies at 200 rpm. same condition...what should i look at next?

  7. #7
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    When you swapped pumps, did you also change the rubber hose or is the original still in? Second, have you tried to pull codes (not sure if it will tell us anything useful)?

  8. #8
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    The rubber hose is not the original and I have a code 64 and 67

  9. #9
    Half Boost
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    Have you taken the rubber hose off the fuel pressure regulator and checked for fuel? Could be a bad regulator.

  10. #10
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    well I had a new fuel pressure regulator in the garage so i just put it on now. made no difference. still doing the same thing. what could be doing this if its not fuel related?

  11. #11
    Half Boost
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    If you still have 10 lbs of pressure you still have a fuel problem. Does the pressure rise at all when you prime the pump repeatedly?

  12. #12
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    fuel pressure is 10 with the key on engine off. probably not good?
    10PSG is not enough to allow the engine to start. Need at least 25. As suggested by brsvo above, watch the pressure gauge while the ignition is repeatedly switched from Off to On (2 seconds), Off (0.1 seconds), back to On (2 seconds) again.

    If FP rises to 30-40 with the pump(s) running, that's good enough for it to start. If it drops off rapidly to 10, that's a different issue that we can fix later that won't pevent it from starting (as long as it's 30+ with pump running).

    If FP does not rise to at least 30 PSIG, you have a pump [or hose or regulator] problem.

    ... I have a code 64 and 67
    64 points toward VAT. Clean the VAF connector and test again. This should not be enough of an issue to keep the engine from starting though.

    67 indicates the Premium/Unleaded is in the Unleaded position. You can ignore this.

    If fuel pressure checks out, look at cam belt (cam/dist timing), then ignition.
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  13. #13
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    Fuel pressure rises to 38 when primed a few times. Cars starts but runs really rough at 200 rpm and then stalls as soon as I press the gas pedal. Fuel pressure does not drop off.

  14. #14
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Got any intake side air leaks (between the VAF and the intake gasket to the head)?
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  15. #15
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    I'm not sure i can check this because it will not run more than a few seconds before stalling. any advice on checking for the leak? I am going to try and get a reading on the timing by cranking it tonight, the belt looks intact from what i can see without removing the cover yet. I know it was set on 10 deg. before this issue.

  16. #16
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    We got it to run long enough to put the timing light on it and its off the chart. Where I see the crank mark is approximately 25 deg ATC with the spout disconnected.
    Last edited by Tonys 85.5; 08-11-2015 at 02:28 PM. Reason: spelling

  17. #17
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Most likely the belt has slipped (check the tooth condition) and/or the dizzy/aux shaft gear(s) are gone.
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  18. #18
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    Now I'm lost. What are the dizzy gears and how can I tell if they are gone. Sorry for the stupid question.

  19. #19
    Half Boost
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    Distributor gears on the bottom of the distributer shaft.

  20. #20
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    If they are gone, do you think I have metal all through the motor from trying to start it and running it? I don't see any flecks of metal on the dip stick.

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