I installed a Mach 1 chin spoiler today, this is something I have been wanting to do for a while and I am happy with the results.
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I had to use a heat gun and use masking tape to help reshape the spoiler (along with making relief cuts underneath).
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1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Looks great!
I agree!
I finally installed the Scott Rod aluminum panels this weekend (for some reason I was psyching myself out over these), they went in fairly easy with some trimming here and there. I must say using kleko's makes a world of difference when I come to riveting.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I also started to reroute the body harness to tuck it behind the fenders, looks like I will only have to extend a couple wires which was a surprise to me. Once everything is laid out and extended I will wrap and secure the harness.
I also need to decide on the routing of my new Ron Francis harness (right now I am thinking about running it behind the dash and cutting a new hole in the firewall next to the steering shaft.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
The head is installed this weekend and found true TDC so I can adjust my timing pointer.
It is nice to see the engine as a long block, unfortunately I am still waiting on 2 more panels from Scott Rob Fab that go behind the shock towers so I can't go too much further as stuff will start getting in the way. But I can now mock up my new turbo, manifold and down pipe to see how that will all fit.
These are the parts is used:
-Felpro Head gasket - p/n 1035
-ARP studs - p/n 151-4202
-Comp Cams Crank socket - p/n 4793 (it is for a sbc, I had to mill a little bit of material from the inner bore and now it works great)
Kevko Valve cover (it is sitting high because the stud nuts are u der the valve cover so I do not loose them).
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I always mark the flywheel and block at the rear too - so there's a reference when the front pulleys / cover / pointer are not on the block.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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I will make sure to do that, thank you for the idea.Originally Posted by MikeFleming
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Exhaust mock up time.
Gnari manifold
Gnari waste gate down pipe,
Tail 38mm waste gate
ARP bolts
I need to smooth out the bolt holes in the manifold as they are catching the bolts and then install the new turbo and down pipe to see if everything fits.
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1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Test fitting more stuff.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I have plugging away still, just slacking on updates.
Mocked up the I/C plumbing and had to shorten the boot going to the new upper plenum so it would clear the strut bar. I also installed the adapter for the blow off valve. I was also trying to decide where to mount the coil packs.
This allowed me to see if the breather tank would fit in its new spot (mounted to the engine block), so I could shorten the plumbing needed.
I also removed the oil cooler (I will see about adding a remote cooler if needed in the future). I am glad that the oil filter works just fin it is place. This also allows the new oil dip stick to have plenty of room.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I went to install the Esslinger water pump but the pulley did not line up. So after contacting them and finding out that the bully flange is only pressed on and that I could fix that on my own. This gave me another excuse to finally by a press. The shaft is also larger which required me to bore out the hole in the pulley.
Here is the difference between the stock pump and the Esslinger one and how much I had to move the flange.
I used a button head bolt to push on the shaft and not the impeller and socket to push on the flange.
I used a button head bolt to push on the shaft and not the impeller.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I then went to install my new water neck and adapter that I made and found out it interferes with the water pump pulley. Since I did not need the pulley for the power steer pump.......out came the rotary tool to cut it off. I used the flange inside the pulley to make sure that I cut it off as even as I could.
The flange I made is to switch the heater lines to AN vs using the stock ones. Mainly because my new turbo is not water cooled, I deleted the oil cooler and will plug the intake so coolant does not flow into it.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I decided to mount the coil packs in the firewall. I made a plate that secures to the studs that hold the heater assembly. The brackets are ICT and fit the coil packs very well. I still need to make new coil wires (using the stock wires for mock up) I also need to run the harness and figure out how to hook it up. This kit also deletes the distributor cap and replaces it with a pickup wheel.
I will wrap the down pipe and turbo to help keep the coil packs from getting damaged by the heat.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
My next step is wiring, I will admit that I am a little intimated by this with everything that I want to install:
- Flex fuel sensor
- Boost controller
- Wideband
- Coil packs with harness
- PimpX ECU
- Ron Francis engine harness
Laying out the harness to see where to route everything.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Your bay is coming together nicely!
I know I have been quiet lately (I have been traveling for work a lot this year) but I got some parts and motivation this weekend so with out further delay......
Last time I drove the car there seemed to be a lot of pedal effort with the cobra front and rear brakes with the stock style booster and 95 Cobra 15/16 master cylinder. So I ordered a 93 Cobra booster and Cobra 1" master cylinder along with all new brake lines from classic tube. So now everything in my brake system is new and not from 1986.
I ended up getting everything from LMR (minus the Wilwood proportioning valve).
Brake booster, Master Cylinder, line adapter and hardware p/n - LRS-2005CB-K
Brake tubing p/n - LRS-MU1046SS
Wilwood combo proportioning valve p/n - 260-11179
Wilwood bracket, lines and hardware p/n - 220-15047
I used LMR's video on how-to set the rod length between the booster and master cylinder (pro-tip, if you are using a HF dial gauge then you may have to subtract .275 from your final measurement)
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
To get the new brake booster in required some drilling and the use of a BFH to massage the car into giving up the space for the lager booster. Unfortunately some of the pretty engine bay paint is not so pretty anymore, but in the end it got installed along with my all cleaned up wiper motor.
I also installed some more Scott Rod Fab panel behind the strut towers to make things a little prettier.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
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