I take it you made an adapter plate to mate it to the stock lower.
I take it you made an adapter plate to mate it to the stock lower.
Yes I did, out of a block of 1" aluminum.Originally Posted by brsvo
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Very nice, are you going to run AC on the car?
1979 Pace Car ~ 1982 GT T-Top
1986 1C SVO ~ 1986 GT vert
No more A/C, my alternator is now located where the a/c compressor use to be.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Got it, thanks. That makes the IC plumbing much easier.....
1979 Pace Car ~ 1982 GT T-Top
1986 1C SVO ~ 1986 GT vert
Here is a picture of where the alternator is now (old picture, the I/C is now in the bumper). I used Ranger brackets to relocate it.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
For the fan I used a Ford Contour dual Electric Fan unit (found at my local junkyard for $60, they can be found on Ebay as well), it has dual 2 speed fans (with the second speed controlled by a thermostat located in the fan shroud. It fit the radiator so well one would almost think it was made for a Mustang. The radiator is NOT a SVO or even a Foxbody radiator, it is an aluminum after market one made for a 94-98 Mustang (craigslist find, and the price was right). This radiator has 2 mount posts on each side, I used these to mount the e-fan housing to the radiator (you could also use those "zip-tie" style fasteners to mount the fan shroud to the radiator). Aside from making a small bracket for the drivers side the fan assy. dropped right in.
For the wiring harness that came with the fans, I took the covering all apart so I could eliminate part of the harness that went to the A/C system in the Contour. I made sure to take as much of the harness and clips from the donor car so I could make these fans look like they belong in the car. A quick coat of paint and some new wire loom and the fans look brand new. Once I get the rest of the under hood wiring sorted out I will hook them up to the factory fan harness as well as an aux power source for when the fans need that second speed thanks to this wonderful desert heat in the Las Vegas summer.
I am also running a 3g alternator ( mounted where the A/C compressor used to be) since my old one gave up the ghost a few years back. So powering these fan will not be a problem.
Here are the pictures.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I mocked up the I/C piping along with a BOV .
With the new inter cooler location I had to run new piping and redo the CAI in the fender (since the VAM is no longer needed with the PIMP ECU). I used the 3" piping that came in the universal I/C kit and I wanted to keep everything symmetrical (damn OCD) and as out of the way as I could get it. Right now everything is mocked up, I know there are a few blue couplings in the pics but those will be swapped out for black ones (again damn OCD).
Now for the BOV, it also came in the I/C kit along with a 3" pipe with the flange. I'm sure is a genuine Chinese knock-off.....but I was not sure about running a BOV so I just went with this el-cheapo one. If I like using one I will upgrade to a proper BOV in the future. It is not hooked up, I just wanted to see how it looked and if I could hide it since the housing is purple.
For the CAI I used the same 3" piping and ran it to where I wanted the air filter located.
Here are the pictures.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Similar to my advice given here to Vince:
http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthre...ll=1#post29507
I highly suggest you slightly enlarge that hole in the fender where this hose passes and install a grommet. Eventually the assorted vibrations and sharp edges of the inner fender sheet metal will cut into the hose.
IMG_0817.jpgIMG_0821.jpg
You can get some reinforced rubber-like thin-wall vacuum hose (fuel line has too thick a wall) and slit it lengthwise, then stuff it into the hole, trimming the ends of the hose to cover all of the exposed metal edge. The thin-wall silicon hose is easier to cut and keep the cut straight but it won't last as long as a fiber-reinforced hose material.
Just a suggestion.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
That does make sense and I have some left over edge molding from another project that will probably work.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Nice work, the metal looks good in the engine bay.
Your Best Bet, Hire a Vet!
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I finished up the I/C piping, moved the fog lights forward, continued with the wiring tucking project and started on laying out the fuel system.
I took Mr. Flemming's advice and put a barrier between the I/C coupling and the fender. I used door edge molding (found at just about any parts store), I did NOT have to enlarge the opening for the 3" coupling to my surprise....everything fit like it was made to go there. I then painted the BOV pipe black and installed all the coupling clamps. With the FMIC piping going right where the factory fog lights were mounted I had to move them forward. Luckily there was enough material from the fog light mounting bracket to move the fog lights forward about an inch, this let me clear the I/C piping and still retain the fog lights.
I picked up a relay cover from www.LMR.com with hopes of covering up the coil and relay, but thanks to my strut bar that did not happen. Instead I moved the stock relay down and I was able to hide all of the wiring going to the relay and tuck the cover under the coil by cutting the cover up a little. I then installed the battery tray and battery along with the washer fluid reservoir just to make sure everything still fit as it should.
Now for the fuel system, I am replacing everything but the tank. I installed the new fuel rail to make sure it fit (I had to file down a part of the throttle body cable cam as it hit the fuel rail). Then found a place to mount the fuel pressure regulator (I flattened out the bracket that came with the FPR and drilled a 1/2" hole so I could mount it to the car using the Maximum Motorsports strut bar hardware). Then I drilled a couple holes behind the passenger side shock tower so I could mount the firewall AN fittings.
On with the pictures.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Absolutely fantastic!
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Why stop there? You should replace the tank too.Now for the fuel system, I am replacing everything but the tank.
( I just happen to have a new one in a box in my shop that I'm not gonna use. It's all shiny. Hint, hint. )
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
My tank was in very good condition, it just needed some freshening up.
See
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Got the proportioning valve plug from MM (so I can remove the guts from the valve) and a Ford Racing proportioning valve. I should have everything now to finish the brakes and re flush them. But first I need to finish up the fuel system.
I made some good head way today on installing the fuel system in the car. The fuel rail and fuel nozzles (60 lb/hr- 683cc/min-Siemens) are from Stinger Performance, the rest of the fitting I got from Summit Racing and So Cal Speed Shop (closest speed place to me in Vegas). I was not able to use the spot for the sending unit on the fuel rail due to my upper intake and throttle body (will not be a problem if you are using the factory upper) these are easily filled with 1/8" and 1/4" plugs. Lucky for me they make an AN fitting adapter with a spot for a sending unit. I am going to have to get creative if I want to keep the schrader valve tho (I might drill and tap the plug on the FPR and install it there).
I started bending the steal 3/8 fuel line that will run from the inner fender to the FPR (man that stuff is a pain to bend with my hand held bender) I have a feeling I may be buying more line since I have already had a couple "oops, sh*t" moments. As far a flaring the ends can anyone recommend a flaring tool? The one I am using is not working and is marring up the tube where it gets clamped down. I have a feeling that running the hard lines are going to take me longer then I planned.
I also installed a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires on the car and finished installing the engine harness and hiding or tucking everything I could out of the way.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Are you double-flaring your brake lines? Does that work with the tool you have now? Doing 45 degree SAE flares?
Most hardware store flare sets are good enough for sift copper, barely able to work at all with mild (soft) steel and not at all with 304/316. There are better sets available though - try Graingers or Napa.
Those injectors are ugly. Couldn't you find anything in red?
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
I am trying to flare 3/8" steel fuel lines, but my el cheapo flaring tool is not up to the task, I am putting AN fittings on the lines. I have found the Eastwood one and it is on sale.....but man after you get the tool and 37* die you are at $300.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Yes, the life of the custom metal fabricator is indeed expensive.... but man after you get the tool and 37* die you are at $300.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Then add the MM bumpsteer tool cost and I will be creeping close to $500 in toolsBut hey, at least I will have them forever.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
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