Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Hmmm, BBF? banned, beer, friend.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Yeah, that's it - BBF.
Post away.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Thank you sir!!
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
A kitchen teaser pic as well.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Well I almost finished up the fuel lines today, that is until I decided to re-route the lines to tuck them up a little more after checking tire clearance. Then I broke one of my fittings trying to remove it because I made the braided line a little too long. On the bright side I am done with the hard lines. I also relocated the fuel filter as I do not want to have to drop the IRS every time I need to change it. I used a filter from a 98 Cobra that worked better with the AN adapters and fit nicely in front of the fuel tank filler neck (I will install a guard of some sort to keep road debris from messing it up). I am not sure I am a fan of having the return line hanging so low, I may look into a different clamp setup to tuck it up higher. Anyways on with the pictures......
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Well I finished up the hard lines today....or so I thought. Before I installed the fuel filter I wanted to double check that the lines would clear the IRS control arms. Well some of them do, but some do not when I fully cycle the control arms. Looks like I was not quite as far as I thought I was. On the plus side, I finished up the front fuel lines in the wheel well and to finish under the hood I have to order a 45* 6AN fitting and all will be done under the hood. I figured while the IRS was still out I would replace the rotors and pads...easy right. Well with adding the EBC green stuff pads and Centric rotors everything was too thick for me to re-install the calipers. Not sure what I did wrong (all the correct part numbers for a 03-04 Cobra). So I have to re-install the old pads (about 30 miles on them) and everything went back together after a little persuasion.
Here are the parts numbers I used
Centric Rotors 120.61046
EBC Green Stuff Pads DP21156
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Yep - EBC adds a "special cleaning" layer of grit to "prepare the rotor surfaces" for their pads. And it's ~2mm thick on each pad.
My personal experience with EBC pads is they're a total waste of time, money and labor. Used a set of yellows on the EVO as a track pad. They were soooo bad (overheated in 2 laps!) that I gave all the sets of them I had away. They'd probably be OK for mild street use but there are many other less expensive pads available that do that much better than EBC.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
For track pads (850-1100F operating range)? Do you like low pedal pressure (high friction pad) or high (low friction compounds)?
In the high friction pad arena I like the Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear (flavor to taste). IMHO they're too high-friction for street use (or sand or gravel) - like 10 Lbs pedal for 0.5G stop force makes them kinda touchy wren cold. That levels out after they heat up on track though. The 12 is a hotter compound than the 10.
Lots of folks like the Raybestos ST43 compound for track use also.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
I would rather have a middle of the road to high friction pad. I have had a car that took way to much pedal to stop (no air in the lines) and I have had one that would have your head smack the steering wheel if you were not paying attention. If I had to choose I would rather smack my head vs' trying to "Flintstone" the car to stop.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
What master cylinder and booster are you using with that brake setup?
I am still plugging away at collecting parts. I am just wanting do to everything at once (vs' one thing, then another, then another, etc). So far (thanks to COVID sales) have added to following to my pile of parts.
I thought it was time to upgrade my tubing benders. I also bought a bead roller to modify my intercooler piping with hopes of preventing any of the silicone couplers from flying oof under boost.
I have been playing with the idea of replacing the distributor and going with an LS type of ignition system. Just not sure I want to spend the money on it right now.
I do have a Pimp ECU for all of the parts listed above as well, just not installed yet.
Anyways on with the pretty pictures of the go fast parts.
- Kevko aluminum valve cover
69654576-DBC9-4CFB-BE90-F83C7AA5A991.jpg
- Esslinger cam bar, adjustable cam gear, tensioner, idler pulley, and associated parts
94D52FA3-0D39-4544-9C8C-E790B940BD87.jpg
- Bo-Port 1.5 cam, roller rockers, new valve springs, lifters
F15764B4-173B-42E3-9AEF-FFC196ACDD6F.jpg
- Ron Francis engine wiring harness
84E946DA-59DB-489D-BBF8-8570F4460843_1_201_a.jpg
- MRT hood strut kit
C5FFD605-84AB-4B13-A1A2-B0A55A97C142.jpg
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
- Stinger bi-wing brace
B9047A7B-1D0E-48A4-ABA3-C755DB177735.jpg
- Tubing benders
85297987-D710-4D39-A7C3-A6107640051D_1_201_a.jpg
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Those are some puuurdy parts!
Thanks for the update!
Bad choices make great stories....!
I found picture of my console mod that I did years ago and thought I should add it here. I am not a huge fan of pillar pods and could not find anything that I liked so I made this before I noticed any aftermarket gauge holders for this area.
I used card stock to create a templet for the sheet metal, once I was happy with the fit I transferred and cut the metal. Placement of the stock switches and gauges to make it look as "stock" as possible was important to me. So once I was happy with the layout it was time to cut everything out.
I also used some PVC to angle the gauges towards the driver and added some black plastic to help add a little extra touch to the finished product.
I used the following Auto Meter gauges to help with that "factory" look as I thought these matched the factory gauges the best.
Boost 5903
Fuel Pressure 5963 (electronic sensor)
I also decided to make an ash try delete panel and add a little extra flare to it.
Now my next biggest dilemma is where to put my wideband, I would like it in a position that will be easy to see but also not hanging out in the open. Maybe I can modify as steering column pod and make it look like it was designed to be there.
Enough with the talking, on with the pictures.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
I really like what you did with those console gauges. I bought the triple gauge console from LMR, but now I need to decide what to do with the factory switches. I'm thinking of 3d printing a piece that will fit in the ashtray location, but I've never designed a 3d printed part before.
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owned since 2003, restomod
Thanks, the only bad thing about the ash tray when it comes to switches is that it is very shallow. I am re-wiring the entire car and would like to see if I can delete the console switches all together and incorporate them some where else to give me room for my wide-band gauge.
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)
Yeah, my ash tray idea would be a wedge shape to elevate the switches to allow them to fit. I may just end up tucking them out of sight because I never use them. I didn't notice what you had in your radio slot, but 2 gauges fit in a radio delete panel with room to spare.
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owned since 2003, restomod