Seeking Engine Rebuild Advice...

[baltimucho]

I need to rebuild an engine this winter. My stock daily-driver has low compression and too much blow-by. I have a couple of spare blocks and some go-fast goodies, so I’m asking for some advice before I get started. Here are the specs and expectations of the rebuild…

• Home ported & polished D-Port head

• Engle TCS-111 slider cam
  
  • Valve Lift: .464/.462
  • Advertised Duration: 270/264
  • Cam Lift: .290/.289
  • Duration @ .050
  • Lobe Center: 114 deg
  
  
• Esslinger followers & HLAs
• Esslinger adjustable cam gear
• Esslinger under-drive pulleys
• Home ported & polished TC intake
• SuperCoupe throttle body
• Kirban FPR
• 36lb Injectors
• Walpro 255LPH Fuel Pump
• 1986 SVO “PE” ECC
• TurboCoupe Intercooler
• T3/T4 Turbo
• ABV for 15-18lbs of boost
• Home Ported E6 manifold
• Stinger 3″ exhaust from the down-pipe
• Magnaflow muffler & high-flow cat
• Ford Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft
• 300-325WHP Daily-Driver w/ A/C

Q: Am I correct in assuming that stock internals can handle this, no problem?

Q: If NO - What is the recommended piston/rod combo?

Q: If YES - What, if any, are the recommended modifications/upgrades/procedures to improve/enhance the stock situation? IE., balancing the crank, main bolts/studs, head bolts/studs, oil pump, dizzy gears, etc.

Q: Do you have any been-there-done-that recommendations for someone who is taking on his first rebuild?

The longer-term goal is a PIMP-X w/ EDIS/CoP and a front-mount intercooler, but that probably won’t happen for a while. I’m not anticipating using anything I don’t already have on hand. I don’t have any more grandiose HP expectations than a daily-driver, even with an ECC upgrade. Just want to do it because I can learn from it.

I have performed a search and read many “engine rebuild” threads, but most rebuilds were sorted out and on their way. I’d like to get some advice on sorting things out before I get started.

Thanks for your input! - Mitch #2

[brsvo]

You state you have most things on hand? Do you have over sized stock pistons? I don't know about over 300 hp on a PE. With higher fuel pressure you may get there but I believe your idle will suffer. The stock rods and crank will go there if you don't spin them too fast-not a problem with the PE. Just my 2 cents.

[baltimucho]

No, the bores are stock.

I ran 260HP on the PE w/stock intake & throttle body @ 15PSI. It was lean then and the idle was super rich. I'm guessing that I'll need bigger injectors now too... Something the SC throttle body would work with.

[brsvo]

If you are pushing oil I would do a bore and hone. So then it is what kind of pistons are you going to buy? I bought CP's but they are not cheep. I think to be safe you should get the pimp sooner rather than later. Again just my 2 cents.

[baltimucho]

Yes, I would love to do the PIMP right now... And it could be possible if I don't buy new pistons.

I'm going to use a different short block that had a rebuild 12 years ago, and didn't have a history of blow-by.

[8T6 SVO]

The more power a motor makes without boost, the easier it is to make power with boost (your 300-325 WHP wants here). Stroke the motor!

Put a modern serpentine A/C system on it while your at it.

[baltimucho]

Can I stroke it with just rods, or do I need a 2.5 crank?

I will update the A/C, but I don't think I'll need a serpentine set up. I only run A/C and the alternator.

[MikeFleming]

Can I stroke it with just rods, or do I need a 2.5 crank?

In order to change the stroke, a different crankshaft is required. Which then usually requires different [length] rods and/or [different height] pistons or both.

[baltimucho]

In order to change the stroke, a different crankshaft is required...

Yeah... I figured as much. I'm sticking with stock. Thanks!

[Mike S]

A good investment for stock rods and bottom end is to get some ARP rod bolts.

[baltimucho]

A good investment for stock rods and bottom end is to get some ARP rod bolts.

Thanks! I noticed they have a main stud kit too. I will get those, along with the head stud kit.

[MikeFleming]

NOTE: Changing rod bolts requires [when done properly] the big ends of the rods to be resized.

[baltimucho]

NOTE: Changing rod bolts requires [when done properly] the big ends of the rods to be resized.

Thanks for the heads-up! Is there anything I should do with the rotating assembly, like balancing everything?

[MikeFleming]

Thanks for the heads-up! Is there anything I should do with the rotating assembly, like balancing everything?

IMHO, no. There is no amount of lightening or balancing on these engines, in either 2.3 or 2.5L configuration, that will have any measurable reduction in engine vibrations.

There is some benefit to having all pistons (with pins and rings) all same weight) and all rods (bit end and total weight) all same but that's about it. But it's not critical by any measure.

MUCH more important to have all journals proper size for bearing clearances, nice, round, straight, etc. And decide e3asrly what weight engine oil you are going to run then size your bearing clearances to match. For example if you select a 5/30 oil, bearing clearances should be near stock level (0.0008-0.0012" rods, 0.0010-0.0015" for mains, 0.0025-0.0040" for end play). Thicker oils need larger clearances.

[SchoolBoy]

The one thing I wish I had done on my last rebuild was have the crank case breather hole in the block threaded for a AN fitting. This would make it easier to eliminate the factory breather in favor for a 3 port catch can that retains a sealed pcv system.

[brsvo]

You could tap the dipstick tube hole and put in a compression fitting to eliminate leaks.

[baltimucho]

Excellent advice. Thanks guys. I already ordered the AV adapter from Yoshifab.

[SchoolBoy]

This is the catch can I'm looking at putting in my svo. I've been emailing Tracy to work out the specific details for my car.

http://tracylewisperformance.com/pro...catch-can-kit/

[Mike S]

This is the catch can I'm looking at putting in my svo. I've been emailing Tracy to work out the specific details for my car.

http://tracylewisperformance.com/pro...catch-can-kit/

You should check out the setup spelled out on Stingers site. It works. 20 PSI of boost and the dip stick doesn't move.

[brsvo]

This is a worthwhile read if you are going thru the engine. For some reason it comes up on the bottom of the 1st page.

http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=055031#000039