Anyone ever install Gabriel cartridges in the original Koni's?
Anyone ever install Gabriel cartridges in the original Koni's?
^^^There he goes talking to himself.
There's nothing more to see here, now move along...
OK rodster so what do you think of them?
Installation was interesting, better have a BIG wrench to get the original top off of the Koni. Having a defective thread on one of the cartridges added some fun. Instructions say 30cc of oil which is about an ounce. I was able to get closer to 2 ounces without the oil overflowing. Started with 4 oz but that was a bit too much! oops The cartridge fits in the original housing nice and snug.
As far as ride, seems good. It's been a long time since I had the car on the road and after driving a 60's Mustang and my '09 GT, it's much different than either of those. I don't remember the ride being so firm, but the original struts were shot and I've become accustomed to the '09. Took it a test drive and hit a few rough spots and thought I was going to lose the sunroof.
Refresh my memory, is the SVO ride firm to harsh?
Still a blast to drive and seems much more nimble than any other Mustang.
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Is it possible to add too much oil and hydro lock them? If that were the case they could be awfully harsh. (like a rock)
Which one?
No, as far as I can figure, oil is just for heat transfer. The cartridge sits tightly in the Koni body but not against the sides. The top screws down against the cartridge body, holding it in place. Might leak if you fill it to the very top, then hit a lot of bumps or flip it on it's roof which is not recommended.
I finally am getting to my front struts which apparently are going to require the use of a "hot wrench" to get the two lower nuts and bolts loose.
When I removed the top nut from the stud it slipped right down out of the onion head. Is there anything else i have to remove from the top to get the strut out?
Nope. I removed the onion heads just to clean things up a bit but probably don't have to remove them. Not sure how easy installation will be getting the new strut rod up through the onion head but shouldn't be a big deal.
Had to use some heat and a big breaker bar too. PS was easier than the DS.
The nut supplied with the new cartridge was too large (looks like a lug nut!) and could not get a wrench on the top of the strut to hold it while tightening the nut. You will want to reuse the original nut.
Just my experience, others may have more input.
The strut-to-spindle biolts/nuts got to 147 Lb-Ft from factory and the nut is a locking type, so expect you'll need 250-350 Lb-Ft to loosen/remove them. A good powered air impact is your friend here. When you re-install these bolts/nuts, hold the bolt and tighten the nut to 150 Lb-Ft. IIRC the bolt head is 22mm and the nut hex is 24. Be sure to use impact sockets, gloves and eye protection.
The top nut will probably need a fast air impact to remove. You might need to hold the strut shaft to keep it form spinning - be sure to use something soft and non-0marring so the hard chrome finish doesn't get scratched. Keep in mind the full weight of the strut assy [and any suspension spring pressure] is applied downwards on that top nut. So be sure to have sufficient support under the strut/lower a-arm when removing the top nut. Floor jack usually works well for this. Heavy parts flying around are dangerous.
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Two different impact guns did not even touch the nuts. Wound up cutting three of the four off. They were not rusted either. Just very tight. So I'll be putting new nuts and bolts on the spindle end. Yeah I noticed the top nut looks like a big lug it. Thought about reusing the old top nut too.
Yep, very tight! I used a little heat and a big breaker bar! Pretty sure they had some kind of thread lock on too. Think you will have to use the old top nut.
The nuts are locking so there shouldn't be any locker compound. They may have been painted to show if there was any movement though.
I have a [rated to] 600 Lb-Ft 1/2 inch impact that with ~120 PSIG from my compressor eventually loosened those nuts. Took a minute or fo of hammering. Be sure to use a 6-point impact socket without any extensions.
NOTE: The same thread size fasteners are used on the inner pivots of the a-arms. There's almost enough room to get a high-powered air impact w/socket in there to loosen them.
NOTE 2: BE sure to tighten the lower a-arm pivot bolts/nuts with the arm at ride height position and not at full droop.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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