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Thread: Clutch cable and quadrant

  1. #1
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Clutch cable and quadrant

    I've searched here but haven't seen any recent activity regarding replacement clutch quadrants for our cars. My research shows the standard 2.3L clutch cable should work but nothing definitive on the quadrant.

    Any current suggestions for quadrant and cable replacement?

    Thinking about this project -before- something breaks!

  2. #2
    Building Boost
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    Hi I went with the maximum motorsports quadrant and an ATP Y220 cable (Rockauto has them for $14.69). You'll also need a firewall adjuster to adjust cable play. I was happy with everything at first but I noticed over time I started getting a squeaking noise when I pushed the clutch. I don't drive the car much so I figured it was from sitting, but last night I got in it and the pedal was difficult to push in and it made more of a loud grinding sound. How that happens from sitting I don't know. I'm going to take everything apart and see if I can determine what the problem is.
    Kevin

    86 1C
    66 K-code Coupe

  3. #3
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVOBoyd View Post
    Hi I went with the maximum motorsports quadrant and an ATP Y220 cable (Rockauto has them for $14.69). You'll also need a firewall adjuster to adjust cable play. I was happy with everything at first but I noticed over time I started getting a squeaking noise when I pushed the clutch. I don't drive the car much so I figured it was from sitting, but last night I got in it and the pedal was difficult to push in and it made more of a loud grinding sound. How that happens from sitting I don't know. I'm going to take everything apart and see if I can determine what the problem is.
    From what I read it sounds like most aftermarket quadrants need to be shimmed with washers to align the cable to prevent binding. Could be your issue?

    Did that clutch cable work on the transmission end without modification?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodster View Post
    From what I read it sounds like most aftermarket quadrants need to be shimmed with washers to align the cable to prevent binding. Could be your issue?

    Did that clutch cable work on the transmission end without modification?
    I did shim it but I'm going to recheck it.

    Yes the cable fit fine on the transmission end. You have to remove a piece from the cable off of the firewall end so it can be used with the cable adjuster. You'll see what I mean when you look at the cable.
    Kevin

    86 1C
    66 K-code Coupe

  5. #5
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVOBoyd View Post
    I did shim it but I'm going to recheck it.

    Yes the cable fit fine on the transmission end. You have to remove a piece from the cable off of the firewall end so it can be used with the cable adjuster. You'll see what I mean when you look at the cable.
    I'll check that out thanks. What adjuster did you get? I've read where some of them have to be adjusted so far away from the firewall it just doesn't seem right.

    I'm fine with as stock as possible and wouldn't even mind the plastic quadrant if I didn't fear the sound of old plastic cracking on every push of the clutch pedal!

  6. #6
    Half Boost
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    Stock ones are no longer made.

  7. #7
    Building Boost
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    The stock quadrants are no longer made, but they are available. Just google E9ZZ-7506-A and you will find a bunch of them NOS, usually less than $80.

    There are so many different aftermarket quadrants and so many stories of problems with them that it seems like it would be a lot simpler to just use a NOS part. I have not replaced mine as I have had zero issues with it so far, 90K miles on the clock, stock clutch, cable, quadrant, dog-bone and all. But when I do replace the clutch, probably this winter, I am tempted to buy a NOS unit to have on hand but not replace the original until it gives me grief. It doesn't sound like a lot of fun changing it. I do carry a spare dog-bone in the glove compartment.
    85.5 9L

  8. #8
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    I used the MM adjuster. I don't think it's adjusted out all that much probably about an inch. By the way I was under the car last night at looked at the clutch cable. It looks like I did grind the ball on the cable so it would fit. It doesn't look like much had to come off. I don't recall doing it at all, it's been a couple of years and too many beers.
    Kevin

    86 1C
    66 K-code Coupe

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by stockerbill View Post
    The stock quadrants are no longer made, but they are available. Just google E9ZZ-7506-A and you will find a bunch of them NOS, usually less than $80.

    There are so many different aftermarket quadrants and so many stories of problems with them that it seems like it would be a lot simpler to just use a NOS part. I have not replaced mine as I have had zero issues with it so far, 90K miles on the clock, stock clutch, cable, quadrant, dog-bone and all. But when I do replace the clutch, probably this winter, I am tempted to buy a NOS unit to have on hand but not replace the original until it gives me grief. It doesn't sound like a lot of fun changing it. I do carry a spare dog-bone in the glove compartment.
    When the quadrant goes your done. Trust me. You have no clutch. My friend and I spent 3-1/2 hours on Friday morning of Mustang Week putting the whole adjustable setup in my Saleen because the quadrant let go while sitting in line to the show.

  10. #10
    Noob 86SVOwner's Avatar
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    SVE from Late Model Restoration. Lines up right and works great. After installing I found that the pedal was pretty floppy and the cable wasn't being pulled very far. Turns out the bracket on the clutch shaft that the quadrant attaches to broke away from the shaft. The weld broke. Found a new unit at National Parts Depot. It's a bear to replace because the pedal box needs to be removed. That sucker isn't meant to be removed! All good now.IMAG3039.jpg

  11. #11
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    When the quadrant goes your done. Trust me. You have no clutch. My friend and I spent 3-1/2 hours on Friday morning of Mustang Week putting the whole adjustable setup in my Saleen because the quadrant let go while sitting in line to the show.
    And it's not a quick fix like the dogbone cable. Which is why I'd like to replace the quadrant and cable the right way....once!

    I like the idea of using a NOS quadrant but don't like the idea of old NOS plastic.

    Why didn't Ford make metal quadrants?

    Quick, someone start making them in metal with 3D printing.

  12. #12
    Building Boost
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    My quadrant went out at work, no previous warning whatsoever. Pushed in clutch to start car, went right to the floor, no pressure. I immediately knew (for some reason) it was the quadrant, called a tow truck to bring it home. There was about 106,000 miles on the car at the time. I replaced it with an NOS quadrant. Took a couple hours to replace, but remove drivers seat and get comfortable laying on your back and take your time. Not too complicated, just tight quarters up in the pedal box.

  13. #13
    Some Boost
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    I guess these dogbone cables are like gold now? I put a new one in with the new clutch, but they threw away the old that I was going to keep for a spare. I found and purchased one for $70 to keep in the glove box. Seems pretty high.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by majestic View Post
    I guess these dogbone cables are like gold now? I put a new one in with the new clutch, but they threw away the old that I was going to keep for a spare. I found and purchased one for $70 to keep in the glove box. Seems pretty high.
    Did you buy a gold plated piece? List price from Napa is less than $19.

  15. #15
    Some Boost
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Did you buy a gold plated piece? List price from Napa is less than $19.
    Now you tell me.

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    Moderator Meotchh's Avatar
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    Last I checked they were $11.00 through O'Reilly's.
    There's nothing more to see here, now move along...

  17. #17
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    I just replaced my OEM quadrant with a Steeda double-hook and firewall adjuster. My OEM quadrant and cable were working OK, but ya'll scared me. I replaced the OEM clutch cable with the Pioneer CA-315. The OEM cable was operating fine and looks good where you can see the cable itself. Car has 90K miles on it. The Pioneer cable fit perfectly, and the adjuster is threaded in almost all the way, maybe two turns out from the collapsed state. I did not have to modify the cable in any way, the ball at the end fit the clevis at the bellhousing properly. It is a tight fit under the dash and I took out the front seat to get under the dash. Getting the old quadrant off was the worst part. The Steeda quadrant was trivial to install after that.

    I am disappointed with the feel of the resulting setup. The clutch is much harder to press now. The engagement point is nearly identical to the OEM, but it is way harder to press the pedal, and it isn't as smooth as the OEM setup through the range of motion. I can only attribute it to the cable, since the radius of the Steeda quadrant is the same as the OEM so I don't see where there is any change in leverage or the mechanics of the operation of the pedal.

    Anyone else have similar experience with the Pioneer cable or other aftermarket quadrants?
    85.5 9L

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