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Thread: 1986 SVO Mustang Return to Service

  1. #41
    Building Boost
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    Yeah, I suppose losing all of your money is a thing you could do...I can imagine that would be a good way to keep getting invited to people's poker games.

    I am hoping to have the time and cooperative weather to allow me to get out into the garage and work on the car this weekend. If things go as planned I will have it running again by next week...I hope

  2. #42
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    Had to order a new aux shaft. Too far gone on the one in the car. Bought a supposedly good condition used set of both gears. If they are a fail I guess it will be billet parts up next.

  3. #43
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I gave some NOS auxiliary shafts in the garage if you decide you need one.
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  4. #44
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    Oh...I guess I should have asked here first. I bought a pair of aux shaft and distributor gear off of ebay for $100. If it blows up I guess I know who to ask.

  5. #45
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    Just to keep this updated while I wait for the replacement aux shaft and distributor gear to arrive. I have gotten a little bit of work done since last week. The hood pull was broken, the cable had snapped because it had been eaten by battery corrosion. I replaced the cable, removed the battery tray, cleaned up around the battery tray area. I am waiting on some wire loom holders to arrive from Amazon so I can clean up the routing of the wires before reinstalling the battery tray. The good news is that there was no corrosion under the tray, it did its job. I pulled the gauge cluster and replaced the light bulbs that were burnt out. My daughter really liked this project because she got to put the parts back in. Now all of my indicators work as intended. I purchased some KYB quad shocks and installed them. They are a placeholder for some future Koni replacements once I get the car fully functional again. I got them for very cheap and it was one of those things I figured I would do. I cleaned up the gas tank, got all new seals on it, the top vent seal was very perished and had a lot of dirt caked around it so I am guessing that is where the fuel leak was coming from. Got the tank back in the car. I have a few other small projects to tackle, but the big one, getting the distributor and aux gear back in the vehicle and getting it running, is still on the horizon. Hopefully the parts arrive this week and I can fire it up for the first time in a few weeks by the end of the weekend.

  6. #46
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    Keeping it rolling along here. I know that I am not making legendary progress on this project, but I do what I can when I have the time to do it.
    I drained the oil yesterday when I got home from work, I wanted it to have ample time to drain all the way out. I also placed a screen over the opening in the container that I drained it into to see if any large metal chunks came out. I suppose it is good news that none did. I am assuming that means that either the oil filter caught the damaged parts or they were fine enough that they slipped past the screen. Either way, I am going to put new oil and filter in/on it this weekend when I get the new parts installed. My plan is to run it for about 100 miles or so with this new oil and filter (assuming I get it started and it does not suffer another catastrophic failure) and then change the oil/filter again to make sure that I got it cleaned out. I am putting a magnetic drain plug on it as well so I can observe if any metal contaminants were captured in the sump.
    The plan is to get it back to a running state this weekend. I will not start driving it until I can get the wiring mess cleaned up and get it past a safety inspection, but running and able to move under its own power again would be a nice change.

  7. #47
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Note that only iron (some steels), nickel and cobalt are magnetic. No other metals will be collected by the magnet (copper, aluminum, zinc, etc.)
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  8. #48
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    Yep, I got that. I am looking for pieces of the distributor gear that were ground/broken off. I tested it with a magnet just to be sure that it was cast iron. I hope it will be ok. I dont have the ability to pull the engine out in order to remove the oil pan in my current garage. I wish that I did as I would be more comfortable knowing that I got the shavings out, but I am just going to hope for the best.

  9. #49
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    Well, it runs again. It runs pretty good too. Super fun to finally get to drive it and feel that boost come on like a light switch. What a car. Now I get to start setting it right and removing the mods I dont like, aka the fun stuff.

  10. #50
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Good job. Congrats.
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  11. #51
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    Thanks, Mike. I still have some stuff I need to take care of before I go get it inspected and registered. The battery is too big for the battery tray and cannot be secured in place, plus it sits at an angle in there, so I need to remedy that. I need to properly cap off the vacuum lines that are not being used. One of them has a bolt jammed into it, and the other is rigged in a similar fashion and so needs to be dealt with. There are some misc fasteners that are MIA from the car that need to be replaced. The ground for the lights need to be addressed still, and I need to fix the exhaust system...or lack of one.

  12. #52
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    The plastic golf tees are much lighter than bolts.

    Just Sayin'!
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  13. #53
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    Been a minute since I updated this. I have done a few more things since I last checked in here, so it is time for an update:
    Obviously the fix to the distributor went swimmingly, and the car runs great now.
    The lighting issue with the turn signal/marker lights has been fixed by giving it a better ground and cleaning up the terminals and putting in some new dielectric grease. Amazing what a little TLC can yield.
    I cleaned up the battery box because of the acid leak from the previous (too big and not secured) battery that was in the car when I got it. I also replaced the battery with one that actually fits in the car. I was going to go with an Optima, but instead went with a regular battery. It works just fine.
    I got under the car to track down the oil leak that had been plaguing it since it arrived, but wasnt bad enough to be an emergency. It would appear that the engine rebuilder used black silicone adhesive instead of a gasket to attach the oil return line to the underside of the turbo. I have the correct gasket on order, and will be fixing that. I didnt see anywhere else that oil was leaking out from, so hopefully this fixes my oil leak issue. I did clean up the greasy spots with some brake cleaner and a rag just to make it easier to tell if this indeed fixes this issue.

    I am really happy with this car so far. It seems to be pretty easy to work on. Most of the parts are readily available and reasonably priced (save the SVO specific parts that are very expensive or dont exist anymore). So I am just going to keep fixing little things until they add up to fixing big things. I am also going to keep my ear to the ground for a steering wheel and shift knob since mine are MIA and I do not like the 8-ball style knob and grant steering wheel that are in the car right now too much.

  14. #54
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    I fixed the oil leak from the turbo, and now there is no more oil leaking under my car. That is nice. I discovered, once the oil was cleaned off, that not all of the smoke was from burning oil. Some of it was exhaust gas that was leaking between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. Good news is that the little fel-pro gasket kit that I bought for 3 bucks has that gasket as well, so I will be pulling the manifold and turbo to replace that in the next few days. I am guessing that when I pull the turbo and manifold that I will find that there is no gasket there at all. The place that did this engine rebuild must be some real heroes. Either way, seems like an easy fix and then I should get back some of my horsepowers.

  15. #55
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    There is no gasket (and should not be) between the exhaust manifold and head.

    There IS a gasket (SS stamping) between the manifold and turbo turbine housing.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    There is no gasket (and should not be) between the exhaust manifold and head.

    There IS a gasket (SS stamping) between the manifold and turbo turbine housing.
    While I agree with you in principle, my car has a gasket (that should not be) between the exhaust manifold and head, but no gasket between the manifold and turbo hot side. I have the SS gasket that I got with my gasket set to replace the oil return line gasket that also didnt exist. When I pull the manifold I will delete the unneeded gasket and add in the missing gasket and that should stop the leaking of exhaust gasses into the engine bay and probably help with the slight surge in the idle. This gets added to the list of things that I didnt know to look for when I bought the car, but now I know.

  17. #57
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Make sure the head side of the exhaust manifold is flat. Cast iron has a tendency to shape-shift with continued exposure to elevated temps.
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  18. #58
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    I will do my best. I have to do all of this work with the motor in the car for now since I dont have a lot of space in the place we are renting while our house gets built. I am just trying to get this car sorted as best as I can and keep it in running/driving condition at all times. I have had a few projects fizzle and die because they got overly taken apart and the motivation to put it back together wasnt there. Basically, I dont want to have to pull the head and send it off to be machined. I am hoping that i will be able to remove the manifold and turbo, insert the missing gaskets, reinstall, and go on about my business. Of course, if the head is warped/deformed/shapeshifted I will have to deal with it, but I sure hope I dont have to.

  19. #59
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I'd worry more about the exhaust manifold flange that mounts to the head being flat than the head's exhaust port surfae. He head is water-cooled and the manifold is not.
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  20. #60
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    Yep, that makes sense. I never considered the possibility that the exhaust manifold could be flattened as well...that is why I post all of my thoughts here, so that I spend less time chasing my tail. I didnt have enough time last night to get the turbo all the way off. I have to get it disconnected from the exhaust and get the oil return line off of it and pull it out with the manifold. Not a whole lot of space in there, but not too bad to work around either. I will get it out, take a look at the turbo and manifold. Make sure there are no cracks or anything like that. Put it back together with gaskets in the appropriate spots. Check the manifold surface for flatness. Hopefully be able to reinstall, torque to spec, and get it back on the road with less exhaust gas leaking out into the engine bay.

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