Hello brotharon,
I used this tool :
http://www.company23.com/products/fordtools/603
when I did my timing belt earlier this year..
Originally Posted by brotharon
Hello brotharon,
I used this tool :
http://www.company23.com/products/fordtools/603
when I did my timing belt earlier this year..
Thanks for the link. I will look into that for the future. I was able to do it without one, but I am sure it is a task that could be made easier.
Now, I am putting everything back together and I want to know what the heck is with the mess of wires that dont seem to have homes on the driver side of my engine bay. I am going to post some pictures below, and if you know what these things are please let me know so I can figure out how to reassemble this rats nest.
Of course I have a big helper...but she doesnt know where these things go either.
I believe the third one is for the oil pressure sending unit on the drivers side rear of the head.
I already have one of those hooked up to the oil pressure sending unit. This one is too small for that. It looks like it is supposed to be for the temperature sensor according to the shop manual, but my temp sensor has a connector and not a threaded stud...
I got a metric s***load done on the car this weekend...I think. The motor is all back together, torqued to spec, and with all new gaskets. The new (refurbished) 50 trim turbo is mounted. I need a few pieces of hardware that are on order to finish the install because I am relocating the BOV so that it is not on a flexy pipe that overhangs the oil fill location in the valve cover. I also need to tap in a barbed fitting so that I can have a boost reference for my wastegate/boost controller. That stuff should all be here this week. I need to attach the oil return line to the underside of the turbo (that thing is a pain to get on there) but it was just too muggy yesterday to be under the car in the garage for any length of time and I was sweating too much to be able to turn the bolts into the mounting holes for the flange.
Once I get those couple things buttoned up I should be able to fire it back up once again and get the timing set. Hopefully, at that point it should be good to go.
Can't tell which side of engine this connector is located. This one above looks like the connector that goes to the AC pressure switch on the accumulator can on the passenger side of the firewall.
Alternately the 86 has an oil level sensor in the left side of the oil sump (pan). I seem to recall it's a single-conductor though,
Above - maybe the Start pin on the starter solenoid. The 86 should have a two-conductor connector on the fan temp switch in the lower manifold. The block coolant temp wire should be part of the injector harness. IIRC the oil pressure connector is part of the TPS harness.
Don't forget the eye protection.
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Yeah, that must be the block coolant temp sensor wire. Now I have to find that connection with everything back in. The single connector wire is coming off of the injector harness. I believe that one of the previous owners hated sensors and disconnected as many as humanly possible. I am trying my best to put it all back together, but some of these things are just more trouble than they are worth I believe. Either way, it is coming together.
Oh, we always wear eye protection! Safety is a #1 priority in the garage...except that I cannot get this kid to wear sleeves or long pants, but who wants to do that in Houston.
Great quote, that got me lol'ing for sure! Keep up the good progress on that car!
I appreciate the encouragement. I usually just get eye rolling from my wife about the car, so it is good to know that there are other maniacs out there trying to keep these things on the road.
I expect to have it started again this weekend. It wont really be driven much until I get a few more things done mechanically (I have a checklist), but it is getting close I think. I am doing what I can to minimize the amount of time that the car is non-operational for. I have had projects in the past that fizzled and died because I tried to do too much at once. I am doing my best to exercise self-control with this one, and tackle one thing at a time...but sometimes when you start tackling one thing you realize that it is a great time to do a few upgrades. I will admit that a new/rebuilt turbo was not required, but the car had an unidentifiable Chinese turbo in there, and I don't trust those things to hold down a stack of papers on my desk. I feel that was a good purchase to make at the time (with the head taken off and the exhaust out of the car) since it makes for a lot less removal and re-installation of stuff in the engine bay.
yeah it's easy to get side tracked, take notes so you get lost in the direction you're headed.
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Fired it up last night after getting the last few things bolted on. Once I got the timing set it was running better than ever. The engine seems to have smoothed out quite a bit, but I wont know for sure until I get it out on the road. I hope to be able to pull it out of the garage after work today and take it for a run around the block and see how it is doing before I take it on longer runs.
If this worked and I cured the engine of what was ailing it for now, next on the agenda will be to get the replacement springs for the sportlines installed and get an exhaust system on it. The sportlines are just too aggressive for my taste, and the exhaust system it came with is basically an eBay muffler on a stick. I am sure that both of these things work, but they arent what I want for my car. I am going to Eibach prokit springs to replace the sportlines. I already have a stainless 3" downpipe, so I will probably buy some over the axle 2.5" sections, a couple of magnaflow mufflers and fabricate up a midpipe. I looked at Stinger's site, but I didnt see him having a setup that doesnt include the downpipe. I also need to run out to the u-pull-it and get some exhaust hangers because mine are gone.
Well, it would appear that my hopes were in vain. I pulled out of the garage, went to turn the corner onto the main street, car died. It would start right back up, but wouldnt move. After letting it idle for a few minutes with the hazards on i figured out that I could get the idle up without having it die by very slowly pressing the gas pedal. Any sudden input, even remotely sudden, and the car would sputter. Stick your foot into the gas and it died. I was able to nurse it back around the corner and into the garage at which point a fog cloud of antifreeze started pouring from the vents in the top of the dash.
I bypassed the heater core, which is apparently toast. I unplugged the VAM, cleaned the connector, plugged it back in. That helped to the point that it runs/drives. It surges really bad when you get on it in 1st and 2nd gear. I didnt really notice it doing it in 3rd or 4th. Seems like something is causing it to pull timing, but I dont know what would be causing that. Also, a bunch of exhaust was leaking into the cabin because it doesnt have a real exhaust system, just the crap that I inherited with the car. Dont really know what to do at this point. This isnt what I was trying to get into with a project car. I was looking for something that was a bit more sorted than this car appears to be. This might be beyond the scope of what I am willing to take on.
You can't stop now because you want to know what the hell is going on. Check your TPS is set to .9v check your intercooler hose clamps are tight,check that wiring mess and distributor cap for water inside. You'll get it.
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The TPS is at 1v. I set it to .9v. I had my wife slowly press the gas pedal to watch the change through the range. It went between .9 and 4.6v from closed to WOT. This seems acceptable. I am looking into the vacuum/boost lines to make sure that everything is properly reconnected.
I completely reset the idle and throttle. I set the idle at warm with the IAC disconnected to ~700 rpm. Plugged the IAC back in, let it figure out the idle. It settled in at around 1000-1050 rpm. The idle does vary a bit (about 20-25rpm) it seems. I do not know if that is normal for these cars or not. If not I may have a vacuum leak or something. Once that was done I found that the TPS voltage was at about .45 volts. I set it to .94 volts and tested that it is functional throughout the entire pedal range. There does not appear to be any dead spots in the range from .94v - about 4.75v (WOT).
I did find that if I press the gas pedal quickly the RPMs dip before picking back up. I do not know if this is only at idle or also under load because I have not been able to take the car out and road test it again. I hope to get it out for another road test later this week, but I have to be safe about this stuff and make sure that I have everything working that needs to be working. The car does not die from the RPM dipping, but it does drop about 300 RPM before raising like expected.
That all sounds like normal operation, good work.
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It is certainly a heck of a lot better than it was. Took it for a short 5 mile drive and it didnt blow up, so that is a start.
There is something still wrong that I need to figure out. It is stuttering/hesitating/surging/bucking under load from 1500 to 3000 rpm. At 3000 rpm the turbo is making about 11 lbs of boost and the car takes off like a rocket. It is tough to know what is going on because i am thinking that if it was fuel it wouldnt get better as boost increases. I am wondering if something is up with the vam or if there is some major vacuum leak that i have yet to locate. If you have any ideas about what to look at or what tests I can do to help find the cause I would be oh so grateful.
Clean the VAM, make sure t's moving smoothly through it's full stop-to-stop range. And make sure there aren't any air leaks between the VAM and the throttle body.
Next check / verify the fuel injector pattern. It's more critical at low flow rates. Cleaning / replacement may be needed.
Lastly verify secondary ignition components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil...) are proper. Above 3K and under higher loads, the fuel mixture goes crazy rich and can mask ignition issues.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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I have started on checking the mentioned systems. I checked to make sure all of the plug wires are properly attached. I pulled the cap off of the distributor. I removed and inspected the rotor. The little metal bit on the end of the rotor looked bent upwards. Upon further inspection i found that it was not pushed into its little groove, and was kinda pointing up at a 35-45 degree angle. Dont know how that happened, or if it is likely to have caused my issues, but it pushed into the groove and snapped into place. It doesnt seem to wiggle about or want to come out of the groove, so I am guessing that it is ok. Inside of the distributor I do not see any water, oil, or grease. I started the car after making this fix and checked to make sure that the timing is still correct. The timing is still at 10 degrees advance with the little metal bit sensor thing pulled, and 20 degrees advanced with it plugged in and at idle. I need to get it out for another test drive and see if this was my issue. If not, I will be moving on to cleaning the VAM, injectors, and throttle body.
I didnt find any disconnected vacuum lines, and the idle is relatively steady. It is not brand new car steady, but pretty ok. I think that I can rule out a vacuum/boost leak at this point, though I may circle back to it if I have to.
That was certainly a problem, but it wasnt the problem. It is really strange. If i go light on the throttle and keep it out of boost I can get it to accelerate without the issue that it is having. I dont know what the term is to describe what it is doing, but basically, if I try to accelerate quickly the car starts bucking, the boost needle jumps up and down, the rpms jump up and down, it is like riding an angry pony. This stops above 3000 rpms and it just takes off smoothly...relatively anyway. I dont know if it is leaning out at lower RPMs and not getting the fuel it needs, I dont know if there is some issue in the ignition system. I am guessing that is pretty much has to be one or the other of these problems, but I am not sure which it might be.
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