Computers getting harder to find than they used to be?
Put on a code reader for the first time in my 86, and ER codes are crazy, different every time. Thinking wiring broken down, but hoping a computer swap would fix it . (I'm lazy)
Computers getting harder to find than they used to be?
Put on a code reader for the first time in my 86, and ER codes are crazy, different every time. Thinking wiring broken down, but hoping a computer swap would fix it . (I'm lazy)
Year of SVO, what letter ID EEC is in it now?
BTW - it's probably the wiring, IMHO. An there s always the PiMP alternative (but that also requires good wiring).
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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'86, so I assume it's a PE. (I'm original owner)
Sorry I'm nooby, I wouldn't be sure where to start replacing wiring.
Don't even know what the PiMP is.
Maybe I should open the computer and inspect capacitors?
If you decide you want to buy an EEC, I have a PE that we removed from our 86 SVO.Originally Posted by alanmassengale
Excellent thanks!
I think I'll start with checking and cleaning wiring, then looking at the inside of my computer, when the weather gets better.
I am not sure but a few years back you could still get remaned ones from the parts stores. If they offer them get one and swap it in before you give them the core. If it doesn't work they may not take it back but you will have a spare. I gave my original back as a core and that was not the problem. Wasted a good PE.
BTW - I have NEVER seen a bad capacitor inside a Ford EEC. The only failures I have seen are burned circuit board traces (almost certainly because someone shorted some inputs incorrectly) and dead output drivers (th9ngs that activate solenoids, injectors, etc.), Probably due to exceeding their rated load for too long.
Although there was one time I recall that an injector driver died (shorted with the injectors always on) . Shouldn't have been due to excessive load as those are current-regulated drivers.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
All great info, thanks much.
I still haven't taken it out and looked yet, but I think I'd like to pm you majestic, for a backup if nothing else.
I’ll message you tomorrow. I’m away from my computer tonight.
For "normal" folks, most all of the drinking / partying / carrying-on was the previous night. Just sayin'!
NOTE: I would never accuse an SVO owner of being "normal'.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Replacing the ECM is last resort, and most likely NOT your problem.
In 5 years of working as dealership Ford tech back in the 90's, I replaced ZERO engine modules.
Odds are 99% you have a wiring / connection / activator / sensor / or mechanical problem.
Get yourself a DVOM and factory Ford Engine/Emissions manual and diagnose the problem, don't guess and needlessly replace expensive parts.
They have diagnostic flow charts to guide you to the problem source based on symptom and DTCs.
Some of the tests require a special "breakout box" but you can work around that.
If you need help to get through the tests, there's plenty available right here.
Bad choices make great stories....!
I picked up a spare. Anyway to get them tested.
Thanks for the advice, I will definitely look into those resources.
The reason I suspect the ECM more than that though is that electronics guys say the capacitors (like the ones that went out in my radio to kill the AM) are only designed to live about 25 years, and this is 2021 now.
I don't have much confidence in the codes I am getting now, since as I said, they keep changing, and some aren't even applicable to my car. Sounds like random crossed wires, so I'll try inspecting and cleaning/repair first.
Alan
'86 9L
Post the codes. Let us have a think on them.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
How does the car run?
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owned since 2003, restomod
Runs very well... codes soon.
Alan
'86 9L
You may also have an issue with that code reader. Do you have an analog sweep volt meter to check/confirm codes the "old fashioned" manual way?
Bad choices make great stories....!
Well, now I have accomplished replacement of my fuel tank, pump, sending unit and filter. I had the injectors cleaned and one replaced, so wanted to make sure I wasn't just pumping any rust
from the original tank into the rail. (as well as getting rid of many more mud dauber nests!) That stuff was the first non-routine replacements ever on this 26k mile car.
It runs beautifully, and now only takes 1 crank to start, rather than 2-3 like before, so suspect original fuel pump was going out.
My main problem now is that my radiator fan still won't come on. The fan motor works if I jump it, and today I changed the fan controller relay, but that didn't help. The new relay looks like the same part, although it's stamped 9CB instead of 6BC like the original. I had checked the wiring as I could without taking stuff apart, and cleaned connections. So now I'm thinking I'll have to look into changed the temp sensor on the block. I'm really hoping I don't have to chase down the whole wiring trail. What's a DVOM?
Good news is that now my code reader gives a clean pass on KOEO, and only gives a 25 and 77 KOER, no knock sensed, and op error throttle wide open not detected. Those don't sound concerning to me. It may even be that I just don't floor the throttle quite long enough, cos I just hate to hear the engine race that high.
Now for that temp sensor...
I was trying to stay original, but new fan and controller could be unavoidable I guess.
Alan
'86 9L
How hot is the engine getting when you're expecting the cooling fan to come on? The switch is 222 degrees F, iirc. Which is pretty toasty, but more than sufficient to keep a engine working with a proper cooling system.
DVOM - Digital Volt Ohm Meter. You can use one to test your coolant temp fan switch in a pan of boiling water (if you can get the water hot enough - maybe add some coolant to let it get to 230F. NOTE: Coolant is extremely toxic so be careful with it around pets, kids, spousal units, etc.). Use an IR thermometer to verify temps.
Code 25 and 77 are typical when the "Snap Test" is not performed properly. Or the engine isn't hot enough at the start of the test.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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It's amazing how either a new fuel pump or cleaning some wiring cleared up all the weird codes I was getting before- it was even telling me my engine was 5 and 7 and 8 cylinders!
Should I hold the pedal down a beat longer to get a good snap test? I just hate to rev it up so high.
So this coolant temp fan switch, correct me if I'm wrong, is on lower block or exhaust manifold, and is different from the coolant temp sensor/sender? Looks like replacement ones are cheap.
Last edited by alanmassengale; 01-22-2021 at 01:21 PM.
Alan
'86 9L
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