Spindle/A-arms

[stott]

How are you going to use your car? It makes a big difference on the modifications you will be doing. For instance changing to the Baer brakes means spindles, control arms, tie rods, master cylinder and probable a balance knob.

The 8" springs start at 425#. Too much for the street really, unless you went with a torque arm in back. That changes everything. To figure out what you need, the best way is to talk with your supplier and get their recommendations.

it's a street car. it probably won't ever see a track, but it's also not my DD. so something streetable and doesn't have to be too tame. a torque arm might be in the future, but for now it's just a regular 8.8" out back. the baer brakes are just like the cobra ones, i was under the impression that the SVO master cylinder would be more than enough. i already have the spindles and control arms.

from my post, the only things i haven't purchased yet are the bolded items, the actual control arms (which i need one way or the other, since sn95 spindles won't work with svo ball joint), and i also need the struts and coilover springs.

[MikeFleming]

If you're changing to the dual-piston Baer/Cobra front calipers, you'll also want to install a smaller bore MC - the 1994 Cobra 15/16" MC works well in this application.

To fit the Cobra MC, you will also need to fab or buy some Metric bubble flare to SAE double flare pipes between the MC and the PV valve.Optionally you can add a hydraulic distro block for the front and then add a rear-only manual prop valve. Mix and match but recall that and FOX brake stuff is SAE threads and double flare while all SN-95 stuff uses metric nuts & bubble flares.

If you plan to lower the car any amount, then you want the shorter FOX struts and not the SVO units - the SVO units will be too long. And be sure add some real CC plates with metal-to-metal upper joints (coil-overs need a solid upper mount as that is that supports the weight of the front end of the car) to get the desired caster/camber settings. Besides no one makes a CO kit for the SVO KONI struts.

I will cover all this in my Red Baron Projects threads. Although I'm probably a couple weeks [or more] away ftom the front suspension stuff.

[stott]

i already have the MM CC plates. the sn95 spindles mean i need to probably get different struts anyway. the ones on my car are ill fitting KYBs that i've been meaning to replace.

i was going to get the single-adjust Koni yellows, just wasn't sure if i needed FOX or SN95 length. keep in mind that i'm using the longer SN95 control arms, not the fox arms (since i'm sticking with stock k-member). with the front CO i'll only lower the front maybe 1/2" at the very most.

you're sure the stock MC is inadequate for just the addition of PBR brakes?

[MikeFleming]

you're sure the stock MC is inadequate for just the addition of PBR brakes?

Yep. But do the math and you will quickly see why. Iirc the stock SVO pistons are 73mm diameter.

[Raven855]

Remember that the sn95 arms are still shorter than the SVO. On the control arms the late 99 and later arms are preferred as they decrease the turning radius by about 10%. I try to post up some info on the MC later. I am currently in Memphis for a bowl game.

[stott]

yep. believe me, it was an epic odyssey to try to figure out the definitive control arm lengths. i referenced your post in this very thread. others seem to think the sn95 arms are longer, but all evidence points towards your assertion.

just purchased MM front control arms (delrin), mm rear torque arm, panhard bar, and adj. rear lower control arms. MM is having a huge sale right now.

[Raven855]

You will enjoy the torque arm. Before you do anything though make sure that you have SFCs. If you are doing COs in back you will need to add support for the shock towers. Since you are doing M&M's sale I hope you took advantage of the gift certificates to buy their stuff.

[stott]

already have SFC. not going to do rear coilovers.

i'll have to give them a call tomorrow to figure out which front coilover springs, rear springs, and front struts will be optimal.

[Raven855]

It will be interesting to hear what you learn. The most significant changes you can make to improve the handling of a mustang are at the back. The torque arm is one of those things that significantly change it. Your spring selection at the back is critical and talking to M&M will give you a considerable education and knowledge of what it is going to take to make your setup work.

[blueboss]

Besides no one makes a CO kit for the SVO KONI struts.

Actually, pg 31-32 of the Koni Motorsports catalog lists a threaded sleeve kit for the 8741 series shock for use with a 2.5" i.d. spring. However, according to the Koni rep I spoke to some time back, for the sleeves to install, the metal "washer" that is spot welded to the retaining nut that holds the shock together must be removed. Even if Koni performs this modification, the lifetime warranty is void.

koni.pdf

[MikeFleming]

There are also body welds that must be ground down to allow the sleeves to slide down on the strut body. It's a lot of work, nonetheless. I will post some pics later.

Not to mention that the length of the SVO strut gets to me tool on when you add upper CC paltes - hood clearance issues abound.

[stott]

Yep. But do the math and you will quickly see why. Iirc the stock SVO pistons are 73mm diameter.

Took your advice, purchased a very reasonably priced cobra MC (made sure it was the 15/16" bore) from Rockauto.

It looks like MM sells brake conversion kits, but they're from Fox V8 MC to Cobra MC. Nothing for SVO to Cobra MC. Will need to research more, would prefer a kit with pre-bent hard lines vs. fitting adapters.

[MikeFleming]

It looks like MM sells brake conversion kits, but they're from Fox V8 MC to Cobra MC. Nothing for SVO to Cobra MC. Will need to research more, would prefer a kit with pre-bent hard lines vs. fitting adapters.

Classic Tube has the templates and can make them in mild steel or 304 SS (metric threads/flare on the MC end and SAE threads/double flare on PV end). They made a set in SS for me several years back.

Lots of pics for the projects threads - when I get that far along (after the Cobra caliper machining and 13" rotor installation).

[Raven855]

Here is a link for you. It has quite abit of info. Look it over, it may answer some of your question. http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page14.html

[MikeFleming]

If you go with the 94 Cobra MC, you will need to machine the snout down where it pushes into the booster (bolt pattern is same). 94 Cobra (15/16" bore) on left, SVO on right.
Img_3467.jpg
Img_3545.jpg

Stock SVO on left, machined Cobra on right.
Img_3547.jpg

I bought these for the front of the red car and some EradiSpeed+ 13" rotors.
NewCobraCaliperKit.jpg
Img_0367.jpg

Then milled off the raised lettering.
Img_0378.jpg
Img_0368.jpg

Then CNC's the "SVO" logo into the new face.
Img_2355.jpg

Then paint & bake.
Img_2590.jpg
Img_2602.jpg

Cut the paint from the SVO logo recesses.
Img_2750.jpg

Mount on car and hide inside wheel.
Img_3191.jpg
Img_2786.jpg

[stott]

mike - no keyed lug nuts?

[MikeFleming]

The ones in the pics above are open-ended steel ones in a 19mm hex. They have since been changed to open-ended aluminum lugnuts. In black. Also in 19mm hex. As shown here:
Black_3951.JPG

Splined steel ones are too heavy and McGard locking ones are total junk (and too heavy).

[stott]

wanted to report back that the stock SVO master cylinder (MC) snout OD is 1.48"