Mike, would you share some more info on your setup? I recall your DAs were milled .250"? Or were they milled as close to the strut body as possible? Did you keep the same inclination angle or shift the strut for better scrub radius with your tires and wheels? They were 17 X 8 with 36mm offset? How about the rack spacing? We will have some differences. The rack I am using has been milled for one, the arms are the offset variety for another.
I milled the upper mounting holes in the strut body about 1/8" outward - to allow more clearance between the strut and knuckle for tyre/wheel clearance. Then adjusted the strut top mount (via CC plates) to get the desired camber and caster (running 6 degrees positive caster and -1.5 camber). The uprights are mounted to the struts in the most-offset position. I did that for tyre clearance (and later discovered that I probably didn't need to) and not for any special front suspension geometry changes. That extra caster is really sweet compared to a stock FOX of +1.
The wheels I used are 17 x 8 with a 43mm offset so they hang more on the inside than a 36mm would. Iirc the backspacing is about 6.25" (can verify with the photo archives). The wheels I selected are a forged unit from 5Zigen, #FN01R weighing in at 13.6#. I think they've been discontinued by now.
Iirc the rack is center-mounted with MM's aluminum inserts on the bolts (used the later 12mm rack mounting bolts that are required by the MM k-frame). I will need to check my assembly photos to be sure. The rack mount inserts came in MM k-fame hardware bag.
Curiously with all the semi-solid suspension and solid steering mounts the whole car shakes and rattles just like a real race car but the steering is very smooth and vibration free.
Then there's that exhaust growl ...
Let me know what you need pictures of. Have LOTS.
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That's very good feedback! Pictures are very welcome! Do we need to start a different thread though? I find the wheel info very good. I have Maximums recommendation, but real world implementation is even better!
You mean a "How I made the Red Baron" thread?
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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It would save you the problem of explaining the same thing over and over and over and over and over and over...Originally Posted by MikeFleming
Enough of that, it was giving me a headache.
Then I could just say "Use the SEARCH!!" and post a link!
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Hahaha! That's the ticket! It's a classic story that should be in print for posterity. Besides it will counter that blue smurf thread.
?? We have a Blue Smurf thread ??
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
Doesn't everyone.
Enough of that, it was giving me a headache.
I checked and the rack mount bushings (solid aluminum) came with the MM k-frame hardware kit. Thread above updated accordingly.
I will work on some Red Baron Projects threads this coming weekend.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
(aka Anonymous)
Club Member
Blue Smurf? what the heck?
"Just leave me alone. I know what to do" (Kimi)
Yes, you know! With that Papa Blue Smurf flat Bob Horse Widower Holmes. He gets called more names than I do!
Tell me it ain't so?He gets called more names than I do!
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
sorry to steer this back on topic,
i was wondering if you knew what type of mustang coil spring to use with a SN95 front control arm on an SVO? i know the SVO pocket is deeper so you need a different spring when swapping to a SN95 arm.
also, how much inner tire/wheel clearance do you lose with the MM Maximum Motorsports coilover setup? it seems like that spring wrapped around the strut would significantly decrease the clearance, to the tune of 1/2" or so?
thanks!
The springs are the same for both the SVO and sn95. You are right in that the spring cup on the SVO control arm is lower but the ride height difference is minimal and usually around 1/2-3/4" lower in the SVO. You can install new and thicker isolator to raise it back up but there really is no need too. You will not lose any tire clearance when converting to the coilovers really. When using a coilovers, you can install and 8" 425# that will give you that 1/2" back. A little rough for the street though. A 10" 300-325 is pretty typical and makes for a better and more responsive ride over the convention spring
Last edited by Raven855; 12-28-2012 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Info
Here's a relevant pic of the clearance between the KONI DA FOX strut, 96+ sn95 upright and a 17x8x43mm offset wheels and 245/40-17 tyres. Not much different than the stock SVO KONI struts with the dust boots installed.
The spring ID is 2.5" to give a measurement reference.
Img_2336.jpg
Here's some pics of the wheel backspacing on the Red Baron. Center mounting to the outside of the tyre is 163mm (~6.41") and the distance from the sidewall edge to the rim edge is 7mm (~0.276") for a total backspacing of 156mm (~6.15").
Img_2099.jpg
Img_2100.jpg
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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You are showing a 10" 300# spring, if I remember right. The 8" raises the perch above the tire.
here's my front suspension i'm about to do:
stock SVO k-member
94-95 spindles, BAER PBR setup.
mm coilover kit for koni style.
mm caster plates
17"x9" +35mm offset wheels. (probably with 245/40/17)
wheel spacers if necessary.
SN95 length control arms.
-prefer to go tubular. MM arms seem kind of expensive, not sure if i'll look for cheaper alternatives
strut/coilover
- not sure whether to get sn95 style strut or fox style strut
- also not sure about what spring/wheel rate to go with the coilover spring, or the length of the spring. my ride height will likely stay very near stock, maybe 1/2" lower.
any advice on the choice of tubular a-arms, choice of koni-style strut, and/or spring choice would be greatly appreciated!
Chu tawkin ta me?You are showing a 10" 300# spring, if I remember right. The 8" raises the perch above the tire.
I have 10" 350# springs in the front.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite
How are you going to use your car? It makes a big difference on the modifications you will be doing. For instance changing to the Baer brakes means spindles, control arms, tie rods, master cylinder and probable a balance knob.
The 8" springs start at 425#. Too much for the street really, unless you went with a torque arm in back. That changes everything. To figure out what you need, the best way is to talk with your supplier and get their recommendations.
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