New Cam Install Questions

[boardmaster]

Hi everyone, looking for some help when I switch out cams in the wife's svo this weekend. I did my very first cam removal on my svo in the garage allready this evening with no problems. I will be removing the old cam, followers and HLA's and replacing them with a new Engle slider cam, new followers and HLA'S from Federal Mogul.

Now for the questions:
#1-What type of lube do I use for initial start-up/breakin period? (None supplied with the cam)
#2-What weight oil/brand is recommended for initial break-in?
#3-What weight oil/brand is recommended for cam longevity after break-in?
#4-What oil additive is recommended for slider cams?

That's all the questions for now, I might have more later on though. Any tricks or tips is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

[oneowner88lx]

Slider cams like a zinc additive such as:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Comp-C...FYeo4AodSnbM1w

[oneowner88lx]

Apply some break in lube on the cam:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-15...7564%26ps%3D54

[Raven855]

Give Engle a call for the proper procedure and lube. There are many procedures and there is a difference between a V8 Chevy, VW or an OHC engine. I use to call Mark Engle, but it is no longer a family owned business and I could not tell you who to talk too now.

[MikeFleming]

With a new slider cam, make sure EVERYTHING is proper and ready to start before doing any cranking (or use light valve springs).

Then when it starts, bring it IMMEDIATELY ti between 2000 and 2500 RPM and keep it there for at least 20 minutes. NO IDLING (unless using light valve springs)! There is less sliding friction at the higher RPM level and more oiling.

Those first 20 minutes are the most critical.

[oneowner88lx]

Would be interesting to see what cam company says. It would also be beneficial to follow their directions so if anything goes wrong you will be able to say you broke it in like they recommend.

[boardmaster]

Well, I just have the cam left to take out. Its' not that fun trying to get those 2 tricky philips screws out at the back of the cam.

Now for a couple of dumb questions.

#1-I pulled all the HLA'S and found a washer/spacer on the bottom of ALL of them. Spacer is a little less than 1/16 of an inch in thickness. Is this normal or did someone screw up? There were NO washers under the HLA's in the 4e car in the garage.
#2-Can someone explain to me how do I set the HLA's. I know it's a stupid question but I don't know.

I'll post some pics later of the cam and components from the wife's car. I'm SURPRISED that the motor didn't go BOOM, I'll let the pics do the talking!!!

Alright, time to get back at her, wish me luck!!

[Patrick]

Jason, you may want to compare base circle measurements between the old cam and the new cam. A smaller base circle on the outgoing cam would explain the washers (or shims). Measure the washers' thickness, too. If you're installing the Engle 55, it is popular because it retains the stock base circle , so it shouldn't require any shims or washers. Of course, checking it would be advisable in any case. You want the HLA to be able to collapse .025" to .045" further when HLA and cam is assembled in the head and the rocker arm is riding on base circle (valve fully closed , at or near TDC for each cylinder). Repeat the measurement check for each cam lobe.

After all measurements are verified as correct, remove the HLA's and place them in a tray with motor oil (enough to completely immerse them. Then start pumping the tips until no more air bubblre come out of the HLA. The lifters are now primed and ready for final assembly. Apply moly lube generously to the cam lobes upon final assembly.

[MikeFleming]

For those pesky Phillips screws:

( BTW - they're not Phillips, they're Posi-Drive. Although a #4 Phillips fits perfect. )

Get a 3/8 drive short #2 Phillips socket and use a racket. Push into the screw with one hand and loosen with the other. BEFORE you do this be sure to plug the two rear drain-back holes in the head - so you don't have to pull the oil pan to get the dropped screw back.

Then get two 6mmx1.00x12mm hex head bolts from your favorite hardware store with two appropriate sized lock washers (one per bolt). Flip the rear retaining plate over - so the tapered screw head holes go against the cam bearing tower - on re-installation and use the hex screws and lock washers. They only to go to ~5 Ft-Lbs so don't over tighten.

Lastly - remove the oil drain back hole plugs before installing the cam cover.

[boardmaster]

I got the cam out and i found engraved "C.410.H turbo" on the back of it. It also looks like the Ford emblem is stamped between the #7 and #8 lobes. I googled the C.410.H part but didn't find any matches to it.

I think I dropped a bit down the drain hole last night as it fell and I couldn't find it under the car last night or today!! Looks like I will be draining the oil and searching for it. I also found the first HLA to be broken and found 1 piece to it beside one of the head bolts. It looks like I am still missing 2 more pieces and I'm sure those pieces are in the oil pan!!

Thanks to Mr. Pearson and Mr. Fleming for the tips and recomendations.

By the way,I decided the engle cam will be going into the 4e car and the cam, HLA and followers from the 4e are switching over to the wife's 7b car. Now to go and buy some hex head bolts as the srews are a PITA to remove and I'm sure NOT FUN to re-install.

[Patrick]

You'll get good at it after a couple teardowns.

After that, you will be the expert and have to answer all subsequent questions here when the next guy asks!

[boardmaster]

Well, I took it for a test drive and MUST of did it right cause it boosts to 15 psi now with no issues. I drained the oil this morning but didn't find any pieces to the broken HLA in it. I also didn't find the dropped bit either. I did use a rubber mallet and checked the pan and didn't here any metal bouncing up when lightly tapped.

I told my wife to go for a drive tonight as she hasn't driven HER car for almost 3 years now.

Now I can get some pics smoking the tires in the mountains this summer.
Thanks for the advice everyone.

P.S. Pat, I like the "Pay it Forward" concept and will gladly do so when needed!

[Patrick]

P.S. Pat, I like the "Pay it Forward" concept and will gladly do so when needed!

Now that you mention it, I think that's one reason why this place was built!

Carry on.

[MikeFleming]

You *might* be able to get the screw out the drain -plug hole, but it'll be very tricky. Maybe if you have a "magnet on a stick" that you can push in the drain hole (and get back out!) and drag around. I doubt that any parts of an HLA will fit through that hole, btw.

Just plan on pulling the pan in the future and have a look around. Change the oil pump pick-up screen while you're in there. More good practice.

[oneowner88lx]

Then get two 6mmx1.00x12mm hex head bolts from your favorite hardware store with two appropriate sized lock washers (one per bolt). Flip the rear retaining plate over - so the tapered screw head holes go against the cam bearing tower - on re-installation and use the hex screws and lock washers. They only to go to ~5 Ft-Lbs so don't over tighten.

Lastly - remove the oil drain back hole plugs before installing the cam cover.

Great suggestion! I stuck those darn screws back in after I changed my cam. I did put some rags on those drain holes like you said I could see that one coming....

[Chalky]

A trick I used last time I sheared an Aux shaft......grab a large magnet and slide it along the bottom of the pan from the rear towards the drain hole. when you've done this a couple of times, get you're magnet on a stick and slide it into the drain plug hole. This should remove any foreign articles from the pan.

[Raven855]

I was at Lowes and saw one of those 2 gallon weed and feed sprayers on sale for under $10 with the weed and feed. I have transmission fluid in it. It is one of those hand pump up types that I put a valve stem in the top of. The air compressor easily pumps up the pressure and i use it for putting fluid in the transmission, power steering, and flushing things like the differential and engine when I have lost an aux shaft. The oil drain holes in the head and the oil drain in the pan offer good access. The detergent properties , especially the cheap stuff, make cleaning easier. Good way to flush sediment out of the head or pan. Just be careful with the pressure so it does not go everywhere.

[65ShelbyClone]

Just be careful with the pressure so it does not go everywhere.

Or rupture the sprayer tank.

I used one full of engine oil to temporarily lube the turbo on an engine without a pressurized system and the hand pump petered-out around 40psi. Just FYI.

[MikeFleming]

A trick I used last time I sheared an Aux shaft......grab a large magnet and slide it along the bottom of the pan from the rear towards the drain hole. when you've done this a couple of times, get you're magnet on a stick and slide it into the drain plug hole. This should remove any foreign articles from the pan.

Get some small sheets of wax paper to place between the magnet and oil pan.

Wouldn't want to scratch the paint while sliding the magnet.

[NavySVO]

Wouldn't want to scratch the paint while sliding the magnet.

Duh! That's why you should use a teflon magnet!