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Thread: 1986 SVO Resto-mod Build

  1. #101
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Then add the MM bumpsteer tool cost and I will be creeping close to $500 in tools But hey, at least I will have them forever.
    Now, honestly. What else were you gonna do with the money?? Besides beer, pizza, hookers and blow, of course.

    A nice bore gauge set maybe? A set of metric bottoming taps? A rod bolt stretch gauge? A Magnaflux machine? How about a Rockwell hardness tester? A four-gas exhaust gas analyzer?

    Just thinking out loud here.
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  2. #102
    Some Boost
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    Now, honestly. What else were you gonna do with the money?? Besides beer, pizza, hookers and blow, of course.

    A nice bore gauge set maybe? A set of metric bottoming taps? A rod bolt stretch gauge? A Magnaflux machine? How about a Rockwell hardness tester? A four-gas exhaust gas analyzer?

    Just thinking out loud here.
    Those are all solid options.....I do have a soft spot for cold pizza for breakfast.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  3. #103
    Some Boost
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    I made a tubing straightener today. Since I am replacing the fuel system I figured that I was going to need one. After looking online at them and not wanting to spend $200-300 bucks for one I came up with my own using some rollers, plate steel and some hardware. All in, I am at $30 for the tool.


    I also went Junk yard diving to find a throttle cable bracket so I could finish up installing the throttle body. I moved the vacuum block as well, it is no longer on the firewall, it is now mounted behind the drivers side shock tower.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  4. #104
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  5. #105
    Some Boost
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?
    There is a side door just to the left of the compressor. It will be fun straightening the fuel line for the fuel tank.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  6. #106
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?
    Or a small hole in the wall, through the living room, into the kitchen and out the side of the house. Oh honey, while you are making supper could you grab that fuel line?

    Nice tool by the way..... I'm talking about the tubing straightener.

  7. #107
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    I installed a FRPP brake proportioning valve and gutted the stock valve.

    First I want to start off talking about doing a double flare. With an "El-Cheapo" Harbor Freight tool they are damn near impossible to do a good double flare every time. So I got off my wallet and picked up an Eastwood Professional flaring tool. Now it is not cheap, but I would rather spend the money now instead of banging my head against the wall by chasing down leaks and redoing things over and over. Another good option is the Rigid flaring tool. The Eastwood de-burring tool is also pretty sweet, as it does both the inside and outside of the tube. This gives you a nice finished end to then flare.

    IMG_0858.jpg

    Anyways, enough rambling.

    I started by removing the factory proportioning valve guts and replacing them with a plug from Maximum Motorsports. I also re did the brake lines going from the master cylinder (93 Cobra) to the proportioning valve (just to give my hands a little more space during any maintenance).

    IMG_0854.jpg

    IMG_0853.jpg

    IMG_0855.jpg

    Then I installed the FRPP proportioning valve on the passenger side where there is a line break from the factory. I just rebent the lines to place the valve how I wanted it (nothing else was needed for the install as the factory lines just screwed right into the valve). Since the valve is not bolted down I added a clamp in the fender well to help secure the brake lines better.

    IMG_0857.jpg

    I may move the valve before I completely finished still undecided.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  8. #108
    Some Boost
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    I also finished up with the fuel system under the hood (minus clamping everything in place). At first I was a little nervous about making my own lines, but after a lot of youtube research I figured I would give it a try. First I picked up a set of aluminum vise clamps to hold the hose and fittings during assembly (I got these off of amazon). Second I bought a tubing cutter (got from Home Depot), man I am glad I bought these as they cut through the tubing like nothing and gave me a clean square cut.

    pACE3-991252enh-z7.jpg

    I used 6AN summit racing fittings and 3/8" hose. I have read that you do not want to mix brands of hose and fitting as they can be different sizes and may leak.

    First place the hose in the vise, then make a fresh cut on the hose.

    IMG_0859.jpg

    Now separate the fittings and place the female piece on the end of the hose. Install it by rotating the fitting counter clock wise until the fitting bottoms out on the hose.

    IMG_0862.jpg

    At this point I loosened the vise and placed the fitting in the clamp to get ready for the next step. Grab the male fitting an lubricate the end ( I used spit, instead of oil) before you go to install it.

    IMG_0863.jpg

    Hand tighten the male fitting as far as you can (this will make sure that the treads are not crossed and that the two parts are threading together properly). Lastly I grabbed a 6AN wrench (got from Summit Racing) and tightened the male fitting until it was tight. That is it, easy enough.

    IMG_0864.jpg
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  9. #109
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    Them measure your line and do the same thing on the other end. This line will go from the return side of the fuel rail to my fuel pressure regulator.

    IMG_0865.jpg

    I have to finish making my DIY pressurizing setup to ensure the lines to do leak before I put fuel in them I will talk about that when I am finished with the entire fuel system.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  10. #110
    Some Boost
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    In order to figure out how the layout the hard fuel lines I needed to partially install the fuel tank. I had to drop the IRS subframe to install the tank and to make it easier to run the new hard lines. I also need to figure out where to mount the new inline fuel filter, as the factory location is impossible to get at with the IRS installed.

    IMG_0867.jpg

    I only secured the drivers side strap so I can still get me hand in the passenger side in order the measure and then install the flex lines.

    IMG_0868.jpg
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  11. #111
    Some Boost Under Pressure's Avatar
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    That's cool!
    Your Best Bet, Hire a Vet!
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  12. #112
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I have never beaten myself up for buying a special tool that I used more than once (as for buying the car(s) that needed all those special tools, that's a different matter entirely). IMHO most special tools make my hammers last longer too.
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  13. #113
    Some Boost
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    Agreed, this car has me buying tools that I have never needed before. But with a Pace Car being my next project I am sure they will all be needed again. Now I am just waiting for my next MM order to get that bumpsteer tool.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  14. #114
    Building Boost Bob, get off my lap! Jack Hidley's Avatar
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    You mentioned earlier in the thread that you replaced the lower shock to LCA bolts with grade 8 models. I would undo this change.

    The Ford bolts are 14mm grade 9.8. This is 0.55" diameter. If you install an SAE bolt in here, then it is 0.5". This is greatly reducing the cross sectional area of the bolt and possibly allowing it or the sleeve to move around. If you drilled out the LCA and crush sleeve to 0.562" for a 9/16" bolt, that could work, but make sure that the crush sleeve isn't being deformed, which it will be if you torque the new bolt to 70% of its yield strength.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  15. #115
    Some Boost
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    Thank you for the advice, I will have to look for those bolts, or go junk yard diving for them. I did notice some play during the assembly but did not realize what kind of impact that would have.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  16. #116
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Those bolts and nuts are still available from your local Ford dealer. Strut to spindle and a-arm to k-frame.
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  17. #117
    Some Boost
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    Those bolts and nuts are still available from your local Ford dealer. Strut to spindle and a-arm to k-frame.
    Thank you for the info, now I need to get back to working on the car.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  18. #118
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unclesams_SVO View Post
    ... now I need to get back to working on the car.
    No rest for the wicked.
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

    Poll Finds 30% Of Americans Still Undecided Whether To Vote Out Of Fear Or Spite

  19. #119
    Some Boost
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    More parts showed up thanks to MM flash sale. They just happen to be some of the parts that I needed, so it was like a match made in heaven.

    The following are now awaiting install:

    - IRS Adjustable Complete Tie Rod Kit / MMIRSTR-2

    - IRS Sway Bar End Link Set / MMRSB-94

    - IRS urethane swaybar bushings / 6-1157-BL

    - Low Profile IRS Subframe Bolts / MMF-1

    As well as a new tool

    - Bumpsteer Gauge / MMT-4 (gotta love the reduced price when ordered with the tie rod kit)

    Now to get these installed so I can finished up the fuel system and install the gas tank.
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

  20. #120
    Some Boost
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    Here is a long over due update on the SVO. Do not worry, I have not lost interest in it....momma wanted a new kitchen so momma got one. We have spent the last 18-ish months remolding the kitchen (ourselves) so the Mustang had to be put on hold. Today I happy to say that I got to work on the car again. I installed the IRS sway bar bushings, end-links, and bump-steer kit. I removed the IRS as it made the upgrades way easier and allowed me to start making the new 3/8" fuel Ines. I was only able to finish 1 fuel line today as I had no idea how time consuming they are to make and how much of a pain 3/8" steel fuel line is to work with.

    Well, I ran out of space to post pictures, can someone tell me what I need to do to increase my storage size or link a picture?
    1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn and stop)

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